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Written and edited by Tammy 18th February 2024 A common question I’m asked is “what veggies can I plant right now?” and in all honesty right now in February for our region, the lower SE of South Australia, (climate zone 6) I would have to say not a whole lot. I could give you suggestions and recommendations for things to plant, (which I will still do) but I can also do things a little different and give you a list of vegetables you wouldn't plant right now and more importantly, why. You’ll still find most of these seedlings available now, and the reason being that in some Zones it's quite likely still fine. Side note: If you're lucky enough to have a hothouse, (a controlled environment) you're 'off the hook', I'm essentially referring to planting seedlings out into the ground, exposed to the elements. Warm Season Veggies Warm season vegetables, planted in Spring, grow right throughout the warmer months. By now these plants should be mature and you should be harvesting produce from them. Cucumbers tomatoes zucchinis capsicums Chillies If you do come across these veggie seedlings I wouldn't recommend planting them now. Most warm season vegetables take between 2-5 months from the time of sowing to being able to harvest them. Being that we're only weeks away from the beginning of Autumn, if you planted them now, you would run out of warmth and day length to see them through to maturity let alone harvest anything from them. Cool Season Veggies Cool season vegetables are planted in Autumn once the worst of the hot weather has finished, and the days become cooler and shorter. They grow throughout the cooler months taking anywhere from 2-3 months depending on the variety, to reach maturity. Brussel sprouts Broccoli Cabbage Cauliflower Beetroot Despite these seedlings being available now, me personally, for our region I'd still hold off on planting them out into the ground for another month yet. I say that because we still potentially have a few more weeks yet where our daytime temperatures can be into the mid 30s, (take this coming week for example) that's a bit too warm for little cool season seedlings. By mid to late March, we begin to see the day lengths shorten, and a decrease in the daytime temperatures, they will have a far better chance of getting off to a good start. **Tip- if you've got seeds now is the perfect opportunity over the coming weeks to germinate your own seedlings. Grab yourself a propagation starter kit, some seed raising mix and set them up in a sunny North facing spot. I'm about to do just that with the Survival Seeds I purchased and showed you a few weeks ago. If you missed it, check it out here Survival Seeds Find out what climate zone you're in, It'll help you to establish what to grow and when. But just remember it's a guide, not gospel. Look for the clues in Mother Nature too, she speaks louder than we give her credit for. Take notice of the changing leaves on the trees and 'that feel' of Autumn is in the air. Here's hoping you all had a lovely weekend. As always Happy Gardening😘🍅

Written and edited by Tammy 7th May 2024 Pruning is one of those jobs that all gardeners need to do at some point whether you have a conservative little courtyard or a sprawling landscaped masterpiece. It's one of those routine jobs like washing, dishes and making the beds...you've got to do it. Customers often approach me saying "I need to prune my tree, but where do I start? which tool is for what??" It can be a bit overwhelming, so, let's go through a few and see if I can help solve some of the confusion. Pruning tools Floral snips Secateurs Shears Loppers Hand saw Anvil versus bypass Floral snips Snips are similar to a pair of scissors, you have two cutting edges coming together, bypassing each other. Generally, they'll have fine, pointed blades for getting into tight spots. They're designed for making precise cuts on softer foliage. Use them for removing spent blooms on annual colour. Secateurs Secateurs, or pruners as some folk call them, are for pruning smaller hardwood up to approximately 20mm in diameter. They're the most suitable choice for pruning back your roses, fruit trees, vines and deciduous ornamentals. Here are a few considerations to take when choosing a pair of secateurs. Price. A pair of entry level secateurs will start around $10. From there you can expect to pay up to $150 and beyond for a quality pair with all the 'bells and whistles'. Consider how much work you will be doing with them, if you intend to be using them all day every day, spend a little more and go with a better-quality pair. Weight. Pick up a few different pairs and compare the weight of them. Are you going to fatigue holding them for a whole day in the garden? Would you be better off with the lighter weight pair. Blade size. Think about what you will be pruning. Lavenders and Daisies will be fine with small, shorter blades, but for your fruit trees and roses you might be better off with larger heavier weight blades. Comfort. Comfort is also important. Take the time to find a pair that feel comfortable in your hand. Look for features such as soft grip handles, and a contour that works for the size of your hand. Some secateurs feature a rotating handle and are available to suit either left-handed or right-handed users. This concept embraces the idea that as your fingers curl, creating a fist, or rather, closing the pruner, the lower handle rotates with your curling fingers. Particularly helpful for older arthritic hands. Like finding your favourite brand of coffee beans, every gardener will find their favourite pair of pruners they love to work with. (Clearly, I'm a coffee drinker!) I recall my old boss giving me a pair of Bahco secateurs and telling me to look after them and not lose them. I still have them, and to this day they remain my favourite ones to work with! They're slim, compact and non-bulky for small hands. They disassemble easily for sharpening and hold their edge well with the daily workout I give them. Shears Shears are designed for shaping and maintaining larger bushes and hedges. They have two sharp edges, that bypass one another the same as the floral snips. Obviously they're larger than snips though, they have long, flat blades designed for removing large amounts of foliage in one cut. The other thing you'll notice is the slight angle between the handles and the blade, which is designed to aid comfort while using the tool in awkward positions. Things to consider when choosing a pair of shears. Price. Once again, the price will be comparative to the quality of the product. Depending on the features you need, you'll find a pair of shears as low as $20 a pair, up to $120 plus. Blade length. For clipping small hedges or shaping standard topiaries, shorter length blades will be easier to manage. A large Buxus or Pittosporum hedge will call for longer, heavier duty blades. Handle length. Handles vary greatly in design and size too. Consider the size of the plant you will be pruning. Shorter handles will be fine if you don't need to reach far, but for taller hedges where you need to reach beyond the extent of your arms-length, telescopic handles extend to double and more of the original handle length. Powered 18v or petrol. If you have a lot of large formal hedges to maintain on a regular basis, (consider hiring a gardener!!🤪) OR, a powered line trimmer might just be for you. Visit your local small engines and power tool specialists and ask loads of questions. Ask them to show you a comparison of the brands, and features of each. A petrol line trimmer will require fuel, oil, and regular servicing, the 18 vollt battery trimmer will come with the expense of buying and charging multiple batteries. It will come down to what works for you. Loppers These are the tool we call on for the big stuff. They’re designed for removing larger previous seasons wood up to and in excess of 20mm in diameter on roses, fruit trees, vines or ornamentals. Some loppers have a ratchet mechanism. It's designed to increase the force applied to the blades in a series of ratchet steps. Helpful for a smaller person, the physical force required to complete the cut is greatly minimised. Telescopic extendable handles are also often an option for loppers which should be considered if what you need to cut is higher up. Hand Saw A must have for every gardener's tool kit! A pruning handsaw is handy for small limbs that are awkward to get at with the loppers. Unlike loppers, the blade of the handsaw can cut right up against the trunk of the tree or the larger limb it's being removed from, so you're not left with a small stump protruding. Being small, they're light weight and super easy to use. The teeth are normally angled back towards the handle meaning they bite in and cut on the back stroke, the pull action, not the push. They work equally as well on dead wood as green wood. Do be mindful to get one that has a decent quality blade, too cheap and thin and it will always jar on the forward push, bending it, rendering it buggered! As with the other tools, you will find a selection of sizes and styles available. If the branches you’re needing to prune or get at are a long way up, well above your head height, rather than climbing a ladder, look for a pole saw pruner which has an extendable handle, often it will have a lopper on it as well. *Anvil versus bypass Another thing you might come across that's relevant for pruners and loppers is the terminology anvil and bypass. What's the difference between anvil and bypass? Anvil tools provide a more powerful cut as they have a double-edged sharp blade (like a kitchen knife). The blade cuts down through the wood essentially crushing it against a flat surface, the anvil bed. For hard old dead wood, that’s absolutely fine, and chances are you won't get through that with a bypass pruner anyway. Bypass tools on the other hand have a single sharp cutting edge that cuts cleanly past the lower fixed edge of the tool. It’s a cleaner neater cut for living wood, less damaging and stressful for the plant. Whether you're tiding up a hanging basket of pansies, or cutting back the most untamed, rambunctious woody vine, there is a specific tool for each job. It's just a matter of finding which one is the most suitable for your task, and the most comfortable for you to use. You'll be an expert armed with all knowledge now next time you go shopping for gardening tools! Hope you week is going along smoothly. Don't forget this weekend is Mothers Day! Happy gardening 😘🌸🍂

Written and edited by Tammy 6th April 2024 (Allium sativum) Garlic. If you're contemplating, "how hard is it to grow garlic?"......the answer is simple, it's easy! Follow these basic steps and never buy supermarket garlic again. **Growing garlic steps to success ** Seed source How much do I need to plant? When is the right time to plant it? Growing requirements. Spacing and depth- how far apart, and how deep to plant them. Ongoing maintenance. When and how to harvest. Health benefits and uses for garlic. Seed source. Once you've decided to have a go at growing your own garlic, take the time to find yourself some quality Australian owned/grown produced seed garlic. Here are a couple of very good reasons why... For one, there's no guarantee how old garlic purchased from in the supermarket is, particularly if it has come from overseas, it could already be months old. Garlic from overseas is often treated with Methyl bromide to prevent pests and disease. And if you think that sounds like something nasty that's because it is.  Methyl bromide is a toxic fumigant no longer used here in Australia due to its hazardous properties. Even if it is Australian produced, garlic grown for the supermarket shelves is most aways pre-treated with growth inhibitors to prevent it from shooting. How much do I need to plant? It's pretty simple, think of it like this.... 1 clove of garlic produces 1 new plant. Each new plant produces roughly 10 to 12 new cloves. So theoretically, 10 cloves planted should net you, 10 new plants equalling 100 individual cloves. Always better to have too much than not enough I say! And remember, from what you grow, not only do you want enough to enjoy eating for the season, but you want to be able to save the same quantity for growing again next season. Ultimately you should never have to buy garlic again. When is the perfect time to plant garlic? Kinda any time now! Garlic, not unlike any other bulb, needs the cold to promote growth. As we head into Autumn there's still nice warmth in the soil, but the temperatures are dropping, and the day lengths are shortening. We've come to know of this as the perfect time for bulbs. Garlic needs 8-9 months to grow and reach maturity, so planting it now in Autumn between March and May means you'll be harvesting between November and January. Some folks say, "Sow on Anzac Day and Harvest on Cup Day". If that makes it easier for you to remember, then there's no harm in that. Growing requirements. Garlic needs plenty of sun, it won't grow in a shaded spot under trees. Find a good sunny spot in your yard or if that's not possible, grow it in a large pot or container. The advantage of growing in a pot or container is that you can plant straight into the perfect potting medium, drainage won't be an issue, and you can move it around your yard if need be. It does prefer a free draining, good rich organic environment. If you're sowing it into the ground add plenty of compost and good handful of blood and bone prior. TIP** Remember to rotate your crops to avoid build-up of soil born disease, aim for a 3-year rotation. Don't go back into the same spot with the same vegetable year after year. Spacing and depth. Soil prepared and ready to go. Break open the bulb if it's not already separated out into cloves. Set aside any tiny cloves too small to plant. Prepare a diluted solution of Seasol complete garden and Health treatment in a container and soak the cloves overnight. Pre-soaking the cloves in Seasol with give them a massive head start. Not only will it invigorate them and stimulate growth, but it will also boost their resistance to pests and disease. Once drained, dried off and ready to go you can begin sowing them. Give each clove approximately 15cm space between them and sow them down to a depth of no more than 4-6cm with the pointed end facing up and the rounded end facing down. Ongoing maintenance. Water them in with a little more Seasol. This should see them off to a really good start. Feed them at fortnightly intervals with a soluble fertiliser, Seasol powerFeed, and every couple of months apply some organic pelletised fertiliser of your choice, some Dynamic Lifter or Rapid Raiser, both good choices. If seasonal rain is plentiful, you won't need to water too often. Be mindful not to let them become waterlogged or they'll be susceptible to rotting. Keep on top of weed control, pull out weeds as they emerge to keep the garlic bed weed free. Monitor closely for evidence of pests and fungal issues such as aphids, rust or white spot. Where present treat with a natural organic fungicide or insecticide. You don't have to always turn to a store-bought product either, look at what's in your own pantry, Bicarb Soda can be a gardeners best friend! Combine 1 tablespoon of bicarb, in a couple of litres of water and treat with that. Often just as successful, kind to the environment and even kinder on your wallet. When and how to harvest. Around 8-9 months after sowing, the foliage will begin to yellow and die back. Stop watering 3-4 weeks prior to allow the skins to dry and tighten a little then they'll be ready to harvest. Use a garden fork (not too close to the bulbs or you'll risk damaging them) to dig down and lift to loosen the soil. This should make it easier to free them from the soil. Trim the excess roots and leaves to tidy them up. Secure them into bunches by the stems, and hang them in a warm, airy location away from direct light for at least 3-5 weeks to dry. Failing to dry them properly will risk them not storing, spoiling and going mouldy. Done properly they should store well for up to 12 months. Health benefits and uses for garlic. You could write a book about it, in fact I'm quite certain there ARE books and articles exclusively on the uses and benefits of garlic, so I won't go into that. Safe to say, garlic IS good for you. It's amazing anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and immune boosting properties have been tried and tested for centuries. And from a culinary perspective, what CAN'T you do with it. It finds its way into my own diet almost daily, whether it be a sneaky chunk off the end of a stick of Kalleske's Mettwurst in my fridge, or in the Garlic infused extra virgin olive oil drizzled on my salad. And I'm quite sure I'm not alone. If you're here in my part of the world, grab yourself a pack of 'Good Aussie Garlic' seed. Proudly grown and produced right here in our own backyard....50 minutes down the road in Bordertown SA. Check out their website, you'll find Rachel and Wade's contact details there. Or if you pop down to your local Naracoorte Mitre 10, they've got plenty available in store right now. Grown at home garlic! (goodaussiegarlic.biz) What are you waiting for, grab some garlic and get planting today! Happy Gardening 😘🌸

Written and edited by Tammy 12th March 2024 The tail end of 2016 saw me thoroughly enjoying my first year working in a local, family own retail plant nursery. It was so exciting to find myself doing something I truly loved. A promotion by University of Tasmania was offering scholarships for a short course in 'The Science of Gardening'. It was only three months, studying online self-paced and with the scholarship it wouldn't cost me anything out of my own pocket. Any apprehensions I had for studying online were soon dismissed and I was keen for more, so when part 2 of 'The Science of Gardening' was on offer I grabbed it. Unknowingly, I had set myself up perfectly for my Cert. III in Horticulture. I had become confident and comfortable with online studying, and I had the basic fundamentals of soil biology and chemistry, and the world of botany. Early 2020 I began researching Certificate III in Horticulture, who could I study through and what was it going to cost. The one thing I kept looking for was 'testimonials' and reviews from past students who had been through what I was looking to embark on. Now it's my turn to be one of those past students and share my story to hopefully save you some leg work. Certificate III in Horticulture-The whys, whos & hows. Why horticulture? Who did I study through? Why did I choose them? What did it cost? How long did it take? What you can expect Would I recommend it? The 16 modules Why horticulture? Plants and gardening are something I've loved all my life. If you're going to take that big step of studying to qualify in a field, make sure it's something you genuinely love and are interested in. It shouldn't be a chore or boring, it should be an exciting and rewarding challenge. Remember the saying "Life is about the journey not the destination". (yes, you've got to have a destination or a goal for where you're heading, BUT life is too short to rob yourself of enjoying the journey to get there). Who did I study through? I chose to study with Open Colleges. They are proudly Australia's foremost long-distance education provider leading the way now since they began, mailing out workbooks back in 1921. They have a physical campus in Perth WA, North Tce Adelaide and, their head office is in Sydney NSW. Why did I choose them? Initially, it was their reputation as the leader in the field and, that that they'd been around the longest, that had to mean something. Equally important was the cost, flexibility with payment options, and the timely availability of lecturers, or assistance when I needed it. To me that was important. If I was going to be taking this journey remotely, I wanted the assurance that there was always going to be someone available for support....and there was. What did it cost? I enrolled to study my Certificate III in Horticulture AHC30716 in February 2020 and back then it cost me $4,600. Upon enrolment I paid a $100 deposit then I was set to go! The balance was paid in weekly instalments over the duration which was 12 months. OC allowed me to set up a payment schedule that worked for me around my other regular expenses which was a blessing and made the difference between me being able to study or not at all. How long did it take? Twelve months was the allocated timeframe to complete the course. COVID lockdown happened in the time that I was studying so my class were lucky enough to be given grace of an extra 6 months. Despite that, I still completed all 16 modules easily by June 2021 (16 months). What you can expect. The main difference with studying online is that you are not physically in a classroom with your lecturer and peers. Once your profile is set up, you'll be guided through the process of logging into 'Open Space'. Open Space is your online campus where you'll access all your course content and assignments. No different to a classroom, you'll work your way through a module, (a topic) and finish with a theory and practical assignment. Practical assignments will require you to have someone video you and sign off as your witness. You can then upload your assignment including your video to Open Space to be assessed and graded by your lecturer. Once you successfully pass that assignment you can move onto the next module. The most important piece of advice I can give you is to find a way that best works for you to manage your time. 'Time management' is definitely the key to be able to stay on track. They will make exceptions and give extensions for unforeseen circumstances, but generally, each semester is a fresh intake of students not unlike a regular school. Would I recommend it? Most definitely, without a doubt! From day one OC were prompt, friendly, professional and helpful. Student Support were wonderful and encouraging, and always went out of their way to help. Zooms and Webinars were a great way to interact with your lecturers and fellow classmates in a virtual classroom. A link to participate is sent to you via email, (think of it as a key to the front door) using either your computer or device with a camera and microphone enabled, you'll open the link and you're in. On your screen, you'll be able to see all your classmates and your lecturer and have the opportunity to join in and speak to one another. I enjoyed the process and convenience of being able to work at my own pace, in my own time, from at home. I didn't have to take time off of work to go and attend classes at a Uni, so it worked perfect for me with my family and job commitments. The 16 Modules AHCPCM204 - Recognise plants. AHCPCM202 - Collect, prepare and preserve plant specimens. AHCPGD201 - Plant trees and shrubs. AHCNSY303 - Install and maintain plant displays. AHCNSY301 - Maintain nursery plants. AHCWHS301 - Contribute to work health and safety processes. AHCPCM302 - Provide information on plants and their culture. AHCSOL303 - Implement soil improvements for garden and turf areas. AHCPCM301 - Implement a plant nutrition program. AHCPMG301 - Control weeds. AHCWRK30 - Apply environmentally sustainable work practices. AHCPMG302 - Control plant pests, diseases and disorders. AHCWRK305 - Coordinate work site activities. AHCWRK311 - Conduct site inspections. AHCPGD305 - Conduct operational inspection of park facilities. AHCTRF303 - Implement a grassed area maintenance program. As you can see by looking at the topics covered here in the 16 modules, by studying Certificate III in Horticulture there are so many opportunities and doors open for you. You could work as an inspector or grounds keeper for local council parks and gardens, work in a botanical garden or herbarium, or head down the path of landscape design. I'm out the other side now, a qualified Horticulturalist, in the industry I love, managing a garden centre! It doesn't get any more real than that. I'm proof that it's very possible and do-able... If you put your heart into it. What have you got to lose!! Happy Gardening😘🌸 Useful links Certificate III in Horticulture Online | Open Colleges Science of Gardening (KPZ001) - Courses & Units - University of Tasmania, Australia (utas.edu.au) Science of Gardening 2 (KPZ003) - Courses & Units - University of Tasmania, Australia (utas.edu.au)

Written and edited by Tammy 12th June 2023 It's exciting to get home with your brand-new trees, and you'll be keen to get them in the ground and established in anticipation of harvesting your very own home-grown fruit. There's honestly nothing more rewarding. So, what do you need to know to give them every opportunity to get off to a good start and be successful? Fruit trees planting requirements Whether you're planting your trees in the ground or in a large containers or pot, you'll need to know what the trees requirements are. The identification tags on your new trees will give you some information about their soil preferences, what type of fertiliser they need and how often, and their water requirements. Soil Ameliorants Once you have a bit more of an idea what their needs are, then you can focus on whether you'll need to make any alterations to your soils prior to planting them. Most fruit trees prefer a soil pH of 6 to 7.5 to be able to take in nutrients, so it would be worth-while testing the pH of your soil where you'd like to plant them. If your soil is too acidic, you'll need to add lime to raise the pH. On the other hand, if it's too alkaline you'll need to add sulphur to bring it down back closer to neutral. You can read up some more on soil pH in a couple of my earlier posts. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/soils-from-the-ground-up https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/soil-ph-the-nitty-gritty-of-it-all If you have sandy soil, you'll most likely need to add compost and animal manure, to add texture and nutrients, and aid the soil's ability to retain moisture. A heavier clay loam may on the other hand need to have gypsum added to help break down the clay component, along with plenty of compost so your trees don't end up with 'wet feet' and drown. Water It's also going to be vital to stick to a good watering regime particularly in the beginning when your trees are establishing. Give them a couple of good long deep drinks per week especially when the weather is hot, and the rain events are few and far between. Fertilising Feed them with a controlled slow-release fertiliser tailored to the needs of fruit trees along with some organic nutrients for good measure. Neutrog Rapid Raiser or Yates Dynamic Lifter are both ideal. Pest & disease prevention Routinely inspect your trees too for signs of pests, diseases and disorders. Peaches and nectarines are highly susceptible to a fungal disease called curl leaf which can be difficult to deal with once it takes hold. Prevention is better than cure, be pro-active and treat them with Copper Kocide each season at the point of bud swell. Pear and cherry slugs will often give cherry and pear trees a hard time and can quickly destroy a lot of foliage if not noticed and treated in a timely manner. If you're prepared to Invest good money in a lovely variety of fruit trees that will see you harvesting your own home-grown fruit for a very long time, it will definitely be worth investing that little extra into making sure you give them every opportunity to be successful. Hopefully you might find a few helpful hints, tips and ideas here that you might not have known about. As always, don't hesitate to get in-touch with me if you need to know a little more. Have a wonderful week and enjoy your gardens.😘🌸🌳

Written and edited by Tammy 4th January 2024 Until now I hadn't really considered doing any product reviews. But recently, my curiosity had gotten the better of me to try a few products that had kept popping up in my social media feeds. Our phones are such clever little things, noting our interests then swamping up with temptations, "here's a suggestion for you" or "we think you might like this, based on that". Now be it that I'm kind of into all things gardening, THIS one caught my eye... Survival Seeds- Their story Who are they? Survival seeds are a small family-owned business that came to be in 2020 amidst the COVID lockdown. You might remember in the peak of COVID society went into 'meltdown'. In an attempt to set themselves up as self-sufficient as possible, the frenzied panic buying of everything from toilet paper to vegetable seedlings sore demand outstrip supply. Shelves were bare, and plant nurseries couldn't produce seedlings quick enough. This inspired creator/owner Stuart to follow his instincts out of not only passion, but necessity and set up a small business of producing and selling non genetically modified Heirloom Seeds. His aim was to inspire and encourage all gardeners, current and future generations to become successfully self-sufficient in producing their own food. Survival Seeds-Their product I mentioned they produce their own non genetically modified heirloom seeds. That sounds a bit fancy so what exactly does that mean? Heirloom seeds are open-pollinated, hardy cultivars of fruits and vegetables that have been grown with love, the seeds have been collected and then passed on down through generations, often in excess of 50 years, hence they are cherished for their historical significance. They're generally hardier and more pest and disease resistant than their commercial counterparts that are often overbred for mass production to meet high demand. Heirloom varieties have stood the test of time maintaining their unique full-bodied flavours that make them by far superior. Non genetically modified simply refers to the fact that they're not tampered with or altered in any way. They're grown the good old fashion way outside in the elements with no artificial interventions. Survival Seeds-Value for money They most DEFINATELY are value for money! When you stop to consider the cost of a regular common packet of seed from any retail store being between $5 and $7, Survival seeds are giving you premium quality non-GMO Heirloom seeds at a little over $2.40 per variety within their packs. It goes without saying. Watch my review. Survival Seeds-Give them a try! When you find 'a diamond in the rough' it pays to give it go. It's such a tough industry out there, with so many small businesses trying there absolute hardest for success. This little diamond ticks so many boxes. Home grown family business. Providing a wonderful product that we all would want to see live on, Heirloom variety seeds. Extremely good value for money. Encouraging sustainability and self-sufficiency. They caught my attention and I'm glad they did. I'm giving them a try, and I highly recommend you do too. Here's hoping you all had a wonderful weekend and managed some time out in your gardens. Happy gardening!😘🌸 About Us - Survival Seeds Australia

Written and edited by Tammy. Information source credit to Nicola Bain. 28th January 2024 If you've ever had some of these cute little guys pay your yard a visit, don't be frightened or alarmed, just appreciate them, you may, or may not be aware of how privileged you actually are. Sure, they might make some strange eerie sounds keeping you awake at night and help themselves to some of your fruit bounty but in the bigger scheme of things if we were fully educated as to their significances, we'd understand it's actually a small price to pay. Remember they were actually here well before us, so it's us as a society who have inconvenienced them, not the other way around. Surely, we can find it in our hearts to be a little more lenient and flexible and learn to coexist for the sake of their preservation for future generations. Bat Facts🦇 What are fruit bats? What do fruit bats eat? The important role of fruit bats. Why are fruit bats visiting my garden? What to look for. What can we do? Emergency contact details What are fruit bats? Grey Headed Flying-foxes, a large 'megabat' are one of four flying-fox species in mainland Australia, and they are the only ones we're lucky enough to see here. Their natural habitat spans right the way around the coastline from QLD, through Victoria and into SA, and the coolest thing is that there's actually only one population of them, so the bats you see in Adelaide are the same group of bats you see in Vic, NSW and QLD, so they get around!! What do fruit bats eat? Grey Headed Flying-foxes eat flowers and fruit, but their favourite source of food is Eucalyptus blooms from flowering gums. When that's limited, they'll be tempted by your flowers and fruit trees, be it figs, loquats, pears or stone fruits. I mentioned they were important and significant, but why? The important role of fruit bats. Just like our humble honeybees, bats play the same crucial role as pollinators and furthermore, seed distributors. They feed on nectar from flowers, collecting pollen all over their soft fuzzy little faces and bodies, as they continue to forage moving from one flower or tree to the next, cross-pollination occurs. Did you know they can travel up to 50km in one night?!! Not only are they pollinating but they're carrying the seeds of the fruit they eat and dispersing them along their journey too. In doing this they spread the genetic diversity for our forests throughout the states, ensuring the continued future food source for our Australian Native Wildlife, Koalas, possums and marsupials. These foraging habits make the Grey Headed Flying-fox a keystone species for Eucalyptus woodlands preservation. They really are a species that entire ecosystems rely on for their survival. That's worthy of some respect and recognition. I personally would gladly share a few of my figs or a couple of peaches for that. Why are fruit bats visiting my garden? So, why are we seeing them here now more so than in previous years? The answer to that is that they're literally running out of food elsewhere, it's becoming critical due to climatic factors, unprecedented weather events, fires and floods, and deforestation, they are left with no choice but to keep moving to where the food source is available. What to look for. Where might you see flying foxes? At night, you may notice flying foxes licking nectar from flowering gums, or even in a fruit tree. If you find a group of flying foxes in the day, they may be camping on your property on their way (e.g. resting for a day on a Melbourne – Adelaide trip). Video credit to the Dobie family of Naracoorte SA What can we do What can we do to be respectful of these amazing creatures whilst still preserving our gardens and produce at the same time? Maintain fruit trees to a manageable size. Hang visual deterrents, shiny objects in the trees. Secure fruit protection bags around fruit. If it is necessary to net the tree use netting that has holes no larger than 5mm x 5mm and secure it tautly over the tree. Loose oversized draping nets with larger aperture holes gives rise for the opportunity to occur where the bats can become entangled potentially causing life threatening injuries or worse still mortality. An adult bat losing its life can sadly result in a juvenile being left alone an orphan to starve to death. If you do notice a bat in trouble, PLEASE do not touch it or attempt to help it yourself. It's crucial that you contact a qualified carer/ handler to assist with the situation. Not only do they have the correct training and PPE for handling the animal, but they are vaccinated for the diseases some Australian bats can carry. Bat Rescue SA Hotline 0475 132 093 Do bats carry disease? Australian Bat Lyssavirus is carried by a small proportion of flying-foxes and is only transmitted from bat to human through a bite or scratch from an infected bat. Cases of ABLV are rare, but any bat could carry the disease. If you do not touch a bat, you face no risk. So, if you do find a bat in trouble, please call the authorities so they can send a vaccinated, trained carer/rescuer out to help the bat whilst keeping every human involved safe. If you think you have been bitten or scratched by a bat, seek medical attention immediately. Bat Rescue SA Hotline 0475 132 093 Sadly, a lot of the stigma and negativity surrounding bats comes down to a lack of education, and one of the quickest ways to get around this is to educate ourselves and one another. Take the time to ask some questions to learn more, as we NEVER stop learning. I myself didn't know a whole lot about bats until my curiosity led me to some wonderful ladies in the community who were only too happy to share their knowledge with me. Now that my eyes are opened and I have a better understanding, I'm keen to share with you what I have learned. Maybe you can take the time to share this with your friends and loved ones too. I hope you've all had a wonderful 'Australia Day' long weekend, and the kiddies are keen for the first day back to school tomorrow. As always, Happy Gardening😘🌸🦇 Additional resources: Photo Gallery (Grey Headed Flying-foxes by Doug Gimsey) – https://gimesy.com/galleries/photo-documentary/melbournes-flying-night-gardeners/ No tree, no me. Ted talk by Tim Pearson – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnOhS5jVBFk The Australasian Flying-fox Expert Group – https://www.ausbats.org.au/flying-fox-expert-group.html Wildlife Friendly Fencing and Netting – https://wildlifefriendlyfencing.org/ On Australian Bat Lyssavirus – https://wildlifehealthaustralia.com.au/Portals/0/ResourceCentre/BatHealth/ABLV_Bat_Stats_Jun_2023.pdf

Written and edited by Tammy 20th January 2024 Yet again the grafted flowering gums around our town of Naracoorte SA are looking absolutely breathtaking. This particular one on Rolland Street is in full flower and really is a showstopper. Quite literally, I abandoned my mission to Maccas for a Frappe' to turn around and go back to admire it. Given the size and vibrant Fuchia Pink colour of this particular tree, it's quite possibly a cultivar called 'Cape Crimson' though I can't be entirely certain with there being so many available. They come in a multitude of colours from fairy floss pink, brilliant orange, creamy soft whites, to the ever popular classic Red flowering gum, something for everyone's palette. Being grafted they're adaptable, hardy and offer a greater disease resistance. Varieties range greatly in size from as small as 4 through to 12 meters tall, so there are options for every size garden or yard. If pink isn't your thing, the red flowering gums are in full flower and generously scattered around our town in yards and sidewalks for all to see. If you've got a half an hour to spare over the weekend, go for a drive around and admire them, see how many you can find. Keep cool, have a lovely weekend! Happy gardening 😘🌳

Written and edited by Tammy 16th January 2024 If there's ever been a Summer for breaking weather records this would have to be the one. Not too many parts of Australia have been spared the brunt and devastation of storms and floods. My home country town of Naracoorte in SA recently broke records and made the news receiving more than 5 inches of rain in less than an hour. The consequences and negative impact it's had on our homes and gardens, for some, has been heartbreaking. The obvious damage in our gardens after storms is always snapped branches and broken limbs, but in the wake of what we've recently seen, comes a host of other issues we're less familiar with. Storm damage issues Nutrient Leaching Drowning Physical damage Pests and disease Nutrient Leaching Nutrient leaching occurs when excessive volumes of water flush all the nutrients from the soil leaving it infertile, often eroding away any mulch and top layers of soil in the process. Within a couple of weeks, the first obvious signs might be interveinal chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves between the veins) then progressing on to foliage drop. Pictured right is my little Trixzee ™️ minature peach that started the season looking lush and green then progressed to this state quickly after the 5 inches of rain we had. After some evaluations I concluded that it was a nutrient deficiency, most likely as a result of all the rain. What to do When any plant is stressed and unhappy always start out with Seasol Complete Garden Health Treatment. Being a soluble health tonic, it's taken in and utilised by the plant almost immediately to boost its immune system, overcome stress and stimulate the roots to encourage nutrient uptake. My tree was treated with both Seasol health treatment AND Seasol liquid PowerFeed fertiliser together at the same time (it is completely safe to do) and I'm continuing to do so at fortnightly intervals monitoring the change. The two products have very different purposes. The health treatment (in the white bottle) is a plant derivative made from kelps, lower in nutrients and ideal as a health treatment, while PowerFeed (in the green bottle) derived of fish, contains Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium (NPK) so it's a complete fertiliser. Both products have a low percentage of Phosphorus, so they are completely safe for natives as well. NOTE* Seven days after commencing treatment, you can see the yellowing is less severe and the newly emerging foliage is beginning to green up. Drowning Drowning is another issue that can arise. Plants need oxygen just like us, heavy clay soils don't drain easily, and when they become water-logged, there's little to no oxygen available essentially leading to plants drowning. Potted plants can also become victims of drowning if they're not up off the ground to be able to drain freely, or if the drainage holes become blocked with matted roots. You'll need to Drain away as much water as possible and allow the pot to dry out. Consider repotting into fresh potting soil if necessary, and make sure your pot sits up on pot feet or something to elevate it off the ground to aid drainage. Plants in the ground can be a little trickier. Try the following. Lift and transplant less mature plants if practical to do so. Aerate the soil once it has dried enough. Add and turn through compost and organic matter to improve the soil structure and nutrient availability. Apply and Incorporate gypsum. Gypsum aids drainage in heavy soils. Mound up extra soil to create raised beds up above the original ground level. Plants that can't be transplanted or moved should be given Seasol heath treatment and pruned back to lessen their workload and help them recover. Physical damage The added weight of heavy rain combined with gale force winds can cause large tree limbs to fall and bushy overgrown shrubs to snap and break. In some instances, a combination of sodden wet soil and strong winds can be enough to partially dislodge and loosen roots from the soil, or even uproot them entirely. How to repair and prevent Prune back and dead head regularly to eliminate excess weight on the plant. Not only will it lower the risk of further damage in future storms, but it will allow for air circulation in the canopy of the plant which helps prevent disease. Pruning back also benefits the plant by encouraging a flush of fresh new growth. Pests and diseases Continued heavy rainfall events in the warm weather bring with it humidity, making conditions ideal for fungal diseases and insects to breed and thrive. If not caught in time, it can only take a matter of days for things to become critical. How to treat and eliminate Routinely check for evidence of insect infestations, Rust, Powdery Mildew and Black Spot. Treat with fungicides and insecticides. Earthcare Rose Black Spot & insect spray or/Sharp Shooter Rose Black Spot & insect have the advantage of being dual action, helping to kill and control fungal diseases and pests. Follow up with Seasol Health treatment as a complimentary to help the plant overcome its challenges. Powdery Mildew ☘️ Tip* Don't forget to turn off automatic irrigation systems, it won't be necessary for a while until things dry out a little. There'd be nothing worse than unknowingly contributing to the issues. With the unpredictably of our weather and the extremes of each event becoming more frequent, I think we need to be as pro-active and as well educated as we can with how to prevent and treat the challenges as they arise. As always, happy gardening. 😘🌸

Written and edited by Tammy 30th October 2023 image of powdery mildew on Zucchini leaves curtesy of gardenerspath.com With Spring now in full swing and summer vegetable seedlings going into the ground left right and centre, powdery mildew becomes a hot topic. If you're vigilant and know what to look out for, and perhaps even what precautions to have in place, you'll be able to act quickly if it does show up for the party! Identifying powdery mildew Powdery mildew is a fungal disease. The first sign is white powdery looking spots, Mycelium (the fancy word for fungi tissue) spreading all over the leaves. The foliage might also start to look yellow and 'washed out' in colour and become either wilted and or crispy and deformed around the leaf margins as it spreads and advances. Not that you can see them, but the spores live on plant debris on the ground and when conditions become favourable, they're transferred by wind, insects and animals from plant to plant. Favourable conditions Cool humid nights in conjunction with warm dry days are the perfect conditions for powdery mildew spores to grow and reproduce. Think of the growing requirements for mushroom kits, they require a cool dark environment, so it makes sense powdery mildew also being a fungus needs the same, an environment that offers low light and lack of air circulation. Most susceptible So many plants are susceptible to powdery mildew, and a lot of them are things we grow right now in spring coinciding with those cool balmy nights, and warm windy days. Here's a handful of the most common ones you'll likely have in your garden right now. The Cucurbitaceae family including zucchinis, squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, and melons. Solanaceae the Nightshade family including tomatoes, eggplants, chillies and capsicums. Strawberries The Fabaceae Legumes family including beans, peas and soybeans. Roses Hydrangeas Prevention As always, 'prevention is better than cure' the more measures you can put in place to lower the risk the better. Allow as much light and air circulation into and amongst the foliage as possible. Give each plant its own space, don't overcrowd them. Remove any old, spent or diseased lower leaves. Locate your vegetable patch where it will get at least 6-8 hours sunlight a day. Water in the mornings so the foliage has time to dry and isn't wet into the cool of the evening. Routinely apply Seasol Health Treatment to improve disease resistance and maintain a strong healthy immune system. Treatment Remove any diseased affected foliage. Treat with Eco Neem Oil, Lime Sulphur, Liquid Copper or a fungicide product of your choice. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the label for rates and directions for use. If you'd prefer a more natural approach, you could try mixing a 40/60 ratio of milk and water. Milk has fantastic natural antibacterial and antifungal properties. You can also try 1 teaspoon of Bicarb Soda, to 1 litre of water and a few drops of dish liquid (biodegradable with no phosphates) the dish liquid just acts as an adjuvant to help the bicarb to adhere. Whichever of the above options you choose to go with, you won't reverse the obvious damage to the existing foliage, but by killing the spores that are present, you'll prevent the new emerging foliage from being infected. Watch to see the new foliage looking healthy and disease free to know the infestation has been successfully brought under control and eliminated. Follow a few of these little hints and tips and hopefully you'll avoid the dreaded 'powdery mildew' or worse-case scenario, know how to treat it if you notice it. Have a wonderful week, and enjoy your gardens 😘🌸

Written and edited by Tammy 29th January 2023 I had the privilege of spending some time over the weekend with some wonderful clients in two very different but unique and beautiful gardens. Both these gardens happen to be at the Southern end of our town up on a massive sand hill, and although there were distinct differences in the owners' tastes and styling, there were some similarities that become apparent. The owners shared with me that they began with nothing more than a bare sandy paddock with an odd stringybark tree and some bracken fern. The sand is fine white grey non wetting sand, that lacks structure and nutrition. I was blown away and in awe with the vibrance and health of both gardens, but then not so surprised once I learned they actually have very good quality water (a glass of water from the garden tap tasted almost as good as that from my rainwater tank at home). I also learned that there's natural spring water flowing directly beneath that area of town. Very lucky indeed!! Regardless of their luck with good quality water, the most important relevant thing I think I need to mention is the theme of plant selection. Both gardens were dominated by plants such as Banksias, Leucadendron, Proteas', Grevilleas, Myrtles, New Zealand Flaxes and Salvias'. Salvias seem to grow like weeds in the sand! These varieties of plants are happy in a free draining sandy environment, with lower water requirements once established. Mulching is also extremely important. Both clients spend a lot of time and money maintaining generous amounts of mulch throughout their gardens which not only acts as insulation to help hold the moisture in but, also in time breaks down adding nutrients to the soil benefitting the microbials. Out of curiosity, we dug down approximately 30cm to the root zone in an area in one of the gardens and found it to still be nice and damp with a neutral pH of 7.5 The owner said they don't water every day; they only give a couple of good deep soaks per week to their less mature plants whilst they are establishing. In conclusion, I think it's about working with what we have. If you have the type of soil and environment, we've just looked at here, you're perhaps best to go with natives, grasses, succulents and drought hardy plants. On the other hand, if you have a cooler shady garden with richer heavier soils, these types of plants would more than likely have a battle so you would be better to go with clivias, hellebores, hydrangeas and other lush leafier green foliage types of plants. Choose smarter, not harder. And a massive thankyou to the lovely, generous people who welcomed me into their homes and gardens this weekend... you know who you are ❤️🌳❤️🌳❤️ Happy gardening!

Written and edited by Tammy 17th March 2023 Hands up who knows why we have such hard water here in the Limestone Coast? There's a little clue in that I'm going to share with you, but first I'm going to back track a little. A few years ago now, my employer at the time, a mentor I have the utmost respect for, asked was I interested in studying a course in The Science of Gardening. My entire life I've loved gardening but at that point, I had no formal training or education in the industry. I thought to myself...."why not, I'll give it a go, I've got nothing to lose, and it might even help me in my new job". Who knew the passion and thirst for knowledge within the industry it would spark within me. Fast forward 6 years to now, my understanding and appreciation of Horticulture is so much more than I could have ever imagined. Thankyou Andew. Now you ask what relevance does this have to hard water?? Well, that was the first module I studied in the science of gardening, and where it all began. I mentioned there being a little clue; we live in the Limestone Coast. I'm not going to be specific about dates, or get too detailed, you can research further for yourself If that is what you desire, it's actually really interesting.....but millions of years ago the ocean covered Naracoorte and beyond, all the limestone beneath us formed and sea creatures inhabited the caves, their calcareous, fossilised remains can still be seen today. Here's the part that becomes relevant to you and I as gardeners. Rain falls from the sky, as it washes down through the layers of soil and limestone (the main components of limestone are calcium and magnesium) those minerals among others are carried on down into the underground aquifer. Water containing hard minerals equates to hard water. Where does our towns water supply come from? It's drawn up from bores that tap into that underground aquifer. You may remember a couple of my earlier posts, I spoke of soil health, understanding soil pH and, the constraints of soil alkalinity. If not, perhaps refer back and have a read as it ties in and has relevance to this. When watering our gardens, we think we're doing the right thing giving them a quick regular drink every day, were actually doing a huge injustice. Giving them frequent short drinks allows those hard minerals, calcium and magnesium in the water to build up within the rootzone of the plants. This results in highly alkaline soil and consequently leads to nutrient lock up. Your plants can't derive nutrients from the soil as they become bound to the soil particles. If you see crusting on top of your soil surrounding your plants or a white residue on the leaves then they proceed to yellow and burn, there's a pretty good chance hard water will be a major contributing factor. So what can we do? You can pick yourself up a TDS Meter for not a huge expense and test your water for yourself, or you could always send a sample off for a more extensive analysis. A TDS meter is a simple small handheld device, that measures Total Dissolved Solids within your water in a measurement of PPM (parts per million). 500ppm is the maximum level recommended by the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) to be safe drinking water. Anything above 500 is deemed not potable drinking water, and understandably, your plants and gardens aren't going to like it either for the reasons I've just explained. It really is crucial that you water your gardens less frequently but give long, slow deep soakings so each watering flushes the minerals down deeper through the soil profile. If you're fortunate enough to have an ample supply of rainwater to use for your plants that would be the ideal, nothing beats rain from the sky, it's liquid gold. Another option you could look into, though it might not suit everyone's budget is an 'Ion Exchange' water conditioner. Without getting too technical, it's a means of being able to deal with the calcium and magnesium in the water with a device fitted to your mains water supply. In conclusion, we have always had issues throughout our region with hard water. The key is to understand it, acknowledge it, and try to find ways to deal with it so it doesn't hinder our efforts to have a beautiful garden. If you are keen to investigate your options a little further, pop in to one of our local businesses such as Lawrences Irrigation and they should be able to give you some advice on your options. Have a wonderful weekend and enjoy your gardens. 😘🌸🪴