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Written and edited by Tammy 12th March 2024 The tail end of 2016 saw me thoroughly enjoying my first year working in a local, family own retail plant nursery. It was so exciting to find myself doing something I truly loved. A promotion by University of Tasmania was offering scholarships for a short course in 'The Science of Gardening'. It was only three months, studying online self-paced and with the scholarship it wouldn't cost me anything out of my own pocket. Any apprehensions I had for studying online were soon dismissed and I was keen for more, so when part 2 of 'The Science of Gardening' was on offer I grabbed it. Unknowingly, I had set myself up perfectly for my Cert. III in Horticulture. I had become confident and comfortable with online studying, and I had the basic fundamentals of soil biology and chemistry, and the world of botany. Early 2020 I began researching Certificate III in Horticulture, who could I study through and what was it going to cost. The one thing I kept looking for was 'testimonials' and reviews from past students who had been through what I was looking to embark on. Now it's my turn to be one of those past students and share my story to hopefully save you some leg work. Certificate III in Horticulture-The whys, whos & hows. Why horticulture? Who did I study through? Why did I choose them? What did it cost? How long did it take? What you can expect Would I recommend it? The 16 modules Why horticulture? Plants and gardening are something I've loved all my life. If you're going to take that big step of studying to qualify in a field, make sure it's something you genuinely love and are interested in. It shouldn't be a chore or boring, it should be an exciting and rewarding challenge. Remember the saying "Life is about the journey not the destination". (yes, you've got to have a destination or a goal for where you're heading, BUT life is too short to rob yourself of enjoying the journey to get there). Who did I study through? I chose to study with Open Colleges. They are proudly Australia's foremost long-distance education provider leading the way now since they began, mailing out workbooks back in 1921. They have a physical campus in Perth WA, North Tce Adelaide and, their head office is in Sydney NSW. Why did I choose them? Initially, it was their reputation as the leader in the field and, that that they'd been around the longest, that had to mean something. Equally important was the cost, flexibility with payment options, and the timely availability of lecturers, or assistance when I needed it. To me that was important. If I was going to be taking this journey remotely, I wanted the assurance that there was always going to be someone available for support....and there was. What did it cost? I enrolled to study my Certificate III in Horticulture AHC30716 in February 2020 and back then it cost me $4,600. Upon enrolment I paid a $100 deposit then I was set to go! The balance was paid in weekly instalments over the duration which was 12 months. OC allowed me to set up a payment schedule that worked for me around my other regular expenses which was a blessing and made the difference between me being able to study or not at all. How long did it take? Twelve months was the allocated timeframe to complete the course. COVID lockdown happened in the time that I was studying so my class were lucky enough to be given grace of an extra 6 months. Despite that, I still completed all 16 modules easily by June 2021 (16 months). What you can expect. The main difference with studying online is that you are not physically in a classroom with your lecturer and peers. Once your profile is set up, you'll be guided through the process of logging into 'Open Space'. Open Space is your online campus where you'll access all your course content and assignments. No different to a classroom, you'll work your way through a module, (a topic) and finish with a theory and practical assignment. Practical assignments will require you to have someone video you and sign off as your witness. You can then upload your assignment including your video to Open Space to be assessed and graded by your lecturer. Once you successfully pass that assignment you can move onto the next module. The most important piece of advice I can give you is to find a way that best works for you to manage your time. 'Time management' is definitely the key to be able to stay on track. They will make exceptions and give extensions for unforeseen circumstances, but generally, each semester is a fresh intake of students not unlike a regular school. Would I recommend it? Most definitely, without a doubt! From day one OC were prompt, friendly, professional and helpful. Student Support were wonderful and encouraging, and always went out of their way to help. Zooms and Webinars were a great way to interact with your lecturers and fellow classmates in a virtual classroom. A link to participate is sent to you via email, (think of it as a key to the front door) using either your computer or device with a camera and microphone enabled, you'll open the link and you're in. On your screen, you'll be able to see all your classmates and your lecturer and have the opportunity to join in and speak to one another. I enjoyed the process and convenience of being able to work at my own pace, in my own time, from at home. I didn't have to take time off of work to go and attend classes at a Uni, so it worked perfect for me with my family and job commitments. The 16 Modules AHCPCM204 - Recognise plants. AHCPCM202 - Collect, prepare and preserve plant specimens. AHCPGD201 - Plant trees and shrubs. AHCNSY303 - Install and maintain plant displays. AHCNSY301 - Maintain nursery plants. AHCWHS301 - Contribute to work health and safety processes. AHCPCM302 - Provide information on plants and their culture. AHCSOL303 - Implement soil improvements for garden and turf areas. AHCPCM301 - Implement a plant nutrition program. AHCPMG301 - Control weeds. AHCWRK30 - Apply environmentally sustainable work practices. AHCPMG302 - Control plant pests, diseases and disorders. AHCWRK305 - Coordinate work site activities. AHCWRK311 - Conduct site inspections. AHCPGD305 - Conduct operational inspection of park facilities. AHCTRF303 - Implement a grassed area maintenance program. As you can see by looking at the topics covered here in the 16 modules, by studying Certificate III in Horticulture there are so many opportunities and doors open for you. You could work as an inspector or grounds keeper for local council parks and gardens, work in a botanical garden or herbarium, or head down the path of landscape design. I'm out the other side now, a qualified Horticulturalist, in the industry I love, managing a garden centre! It doesn't get any more real than that. I'm proof that it's very possible and do-able... If you put your heart into it. What have you got to lose!! Happy Gardening😘🌸 Useful links Certificate III in Horticulture Online | Open Colleges Science of Gardening (KPZ001) - Courses & Units - University of Tasmania, Australia (utas.edu.au) Science of Gardening 2 (KPZ003) - Courses & Units - University of Tasmania, Australia (utas.edu.au)

Written and edited by Tammy 25th February 2024 This would have to have been one of the weirdest summer seasons we've had in a long time. With a wet start including record breaking unprecedented rain events, humidity, not enough consistent warm sunny days to ripen vegetables, and literally one or two random close to 40-degree hot days that shocked and fried everything in the gardens beyond belief. Fair to say it created some challenges. I bet you felt like a bad plant parent looking around mystified at all the burnt crispy foliage. Well, if it makes you feel any better, you're not alone. That was me too. Don't beat yourself up, here's what we can do... **How to save my burnt plants ** Tip #1 - Lighten the load. They will be absolutely fine, with a little TLC. If they are young trees, at this point in time so close to Autumn, they are going to drop all the burnt leaves anyway, and that's ok, it's to be expected. If they are shrubs or perennials, you might like to give them a light prune to remove all the damaged foliage and take some weight off/lighten the load. Tip #2 - Seasol guaranteed to help every time! Start treating with weekly applications of Seasol Health Treatment to help the plant overcome the stress it's experienced and boost its system to start reproducing new foliage. If you have non-wetting or dry sandy soil, give Seasols Super Soil Wetter and Conditioner a go, It's a wetting agent, soil conditioner and plant health treatment all in one. According to Seasols official website, their product Improves water penetration in all soils. Retains moisture at the root zone and reduces drying of soil. Maximises nutrient uptake. Increases watering efficiency and minimises run-off and water wastage. Contains liquid composts which improve and condition the soil. Contains Seasol which promotes strong healthy root growth and overall plant health. You'll find Seasol products available online and through most major leading outlets. Tip #3 - Cover up, provide protection. Fortunately, we're at the tail end of summer so hopefully there shouldn't be too many more extreme heat events. Where practicable, provide some shade or protection from the sun. There's nothing worse than seeing fresh new delicate green growth, only to have it happen again!! If you know there are hot days coming in the preceding week, rig up a shade sail, some shade cloth over star droppers or even an old sheet perhaps. Tip #4 - Slip slop slap, "slop on sunscreen" If it's not practical to physically cover your plants up, consider applying a heat and frost protectant product such as Envy. Envy is the product of an Australian company based in Qld called Agrobest. It's kind of like a sunscreen for plants. Well not just only sunscreen, it's better than that as it protects them from ALL environmental climatic stresses. The active ingredient is a water-based polymer that's non-toxic, pH neutral and biodegradable. When it's applied to your plants it covers the foliage with an invisible membrane that protects them from sunburn, windburn, wilting from excessive moisture loss and frosts. It doesn't prevent them from still being able to photosynthesize and breathe (take in carbon dioxide and release oxygen). It's a very clever concept really and well worth routinely using. You can find the product through some specialty plants stores and this company appears to have it available too. The Garden Super Store based in QLD. Here's a link to their website Garden Shop | 1000's Of Products | The Garden Superstore Tip #5 - Planting location Consider the plants growing location preferences when choosing a spot in your garden. If a plant label recommends part sun to shade, you might reconsider not planting it in the middle of the garden on the Northwestern side of your yard. Alternatively, if it suggests a preference for full sun, you wouldn't plant it on the southeastern side of your yard behind the house. As time goes by and your garden matures, you'll begin to create a microclimate giving you new planting location opportunities. A large evergreen tree planted in the full sun will provide a nice full shade location for shade loving plants. All things to consider when planning and designing your garden if you're starting out from scratch. Don't despair as there's always a solution or a way to get around things in gardening. It might look a little sad and less than ideal, but burnt foliage is just one of those unfortunate things that happens from time to time. Try a few of these tips, hopefully they'll help. Here's hoping you've had a wonderful weekend, As always, Happy Gardening! 😘🌸🌳

Written and edited by Tammy 16th September 2023 Barely three weeks into September and already Summer vegetable seedlings are flooding into garden centres everywhere. Tomatoes in more varieties than you could ever imagine, cucumbers, zucchinis, pumpkins, chillies and capsicums. You can't help but get excited! Let's not forget, these perfect healthy robust little seedlings have had the best start in life, germinated in hot houses, controlled environments, not exposed to strong winds, temperature extremes, frosts, pests or diseases. So, once we take them home, how do we give them the best chance to thrive and ultimately be successfully growing seedlings? Successful seedlings tips #1 Make sure you're selecting fresh, healthy looking strong seedlings. Avoid anything that looks sickly, limp, or diseased. #2 If you are buying them now this early in the season, consider keeping them inside in a bright windowsill for a few more weeks, Spring frosts are yet to come as we begin to have more and more clear sunny days with no night-time cloud cover. #3 When you are ready to plant them out, make sure you've prepared the area well by adding lots of organic matter, compost, aged animal manure, and gypsum if you have heavier soils. #4 Consider a raised garden bed if you soil conditions are less than ideal or if it's a means of stopping pets get into the area and risking damaging tender seedlings. #5 Plant your seedlings early in the day when the weather is nice, sunny and mild, so they have time to acclimatise before the cold and damp of the evening sets in. #6 Avoid damaging or disturbing their delicate root systems. Don't be tempted to try and separate the likes of spring onions or carrots, leave them be, they will sort themselves out (survival of the fittest) or you can remove a few smaller struggling ones as they begin to mature. #7 Secure vegetables such as tomatoes to an appropriately sized stake or trellis to help support them as they grow. #8 Water them in well with a solution of Seasol Health Treatment, looking for air bubbles to confirm they're watered thoroughly and there are not dry spots in their soil at the root zone. Adding the Seasol helps to avoid transplant shock, boosts the plants immune system and stimulates the roots to get growing. #9 Monitor the weather forecast and have a survival plan in place. This probably sounds silly, but in reality, it's not! Spring always sees multiple nasty frosts here in our region, not to mention days of hot Northerly winds. A good frost will wipe out your vegetable patch in one go, so cover them up with frost cloth, some containers or milk bottles, or whatever you have available. #10 Feed feed feed!! would your kids grow on an empty tummy? no, and neither will your seedlings. Feed weekly with a readily available soluble fertiliser high in nitrogen for foliage development such as Seasol Powerfeed, alongside a slow-release organic fertiliser such as Neutrogs Rapid Raiser. As your plants reach maturity and change to reproductive Potassium becomes important for fruit and flower development, so look for that branded Potash, such as Yates liquid Potash. #11 Mulch generously around your little seedlings with some Rocky Point Sugarcane, it's a nice fine chopped up mulch that will pack and settle around them well. Mulching not only insulates them, aid in water retention and prevent dehydration, but as it breaks down it continues to feed your soil. #12 finally, be vigilant and constantly on the lookout for pests, diseases and disorders. Hungry slugs, snails and earwigs will devour seedlings almost overnight, powdery mildew and rust are common fungal infections that will require a fungicide, and plants that generally look sad and aren't performing well, may have issues with inconsistency of water availability or even toxicity. If you're unsure, you're always welcome to contact me for more advice, or if you live in my neck of the woods...you'll most likely know where to find me 😜🪴 Without a doubt, if your taking onboard and implementing these 12 tips, you're going to be rewarded with a bountiful patch full of fresh produce to keep you going all season and perhaps even enough to share around with friends and family, there's nothing more rewarding! Have a wonderful weekend and enjoy your gardens. 😘🌸🌱

Written and edited by Tammy 12th June 2023 It's exciting to get home with your brand-new trees, and you'll be keen to get them in the ground and established in anticipation of harvesting your very own home-grown fruit. There's honestly nothing more rewarding. So, what do you need to know to give them every opportunity to get off to a good start and be successful? Fruit trees planting requirements Whether you're planting your trees in the ground or in a large containers or pot, you'll need to know what the trees requirements are. The identification tags on your new trees will give you some information about their soil preferences, what type of fertiliser they need and how often, and their water requirements. Soil Ameliorants Once you have a bit more of an idea what their needs are, then you can focus on whether you'll need to make any alterations to your soils prior to planting them. Most fruit trees prefer a soil pH of 6 to 7.5 to be able to take in nutrients, so it would be worth-while testing the pH of your soil where you'd like to plant them. If your soil is too acidic, you'll need to add lime to raise the pH. On the other hand, if it's too alkaline you'll need to add sulphur to bring it down back closer to neutral. You can read up some more on soil pH in a couple of my earlier posts. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/soils-from-the-ground-up https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/soil-ph-the-nitty-gritty-of-it-all If you have sandy soil, you'll most likely need to add compost and animal manure, to add texture and nutrients, and aid the soil's ability to retain moisture. A heavier clay loam may on the other hand need to have gypsum added to help break down the clay component, along with plenty of compost so your trees don't end up with 'wet feet' and drown. Water It's also going to be vital to stick to a good watering regime particularly in the beginning when your trees are establishing. Give them a couple of good long deep drinks per week especially when the weather is hot, and the rain events are few and far between. Fertilising Feed them with a controlled slow-release fertiliser tailored to the needs of fruit trees along with some organic nutrients for good measure. Neutrog Rapid Raiser or Yates Dynamic Lifter are both ideal. Pest & disease prevention Routinely inspect your trees too for signs of pests, diseases and disorders. Peaches and nectarines are highly susceptible to a fungal disease called curl leaf which can be difficult to deal with once it takes hold. Prevention is better than cure, be pro-active and treat them with Copper Kocide each season at the point of bud swell. Pear and cherry slugs will often give cherry and pear trees a hard time and can quickly destroy a lot of foliage if not noticed and treated in a timely manner. If you're prepared to Invest good money in a lovely variety of fruit trees that will see you harvesting your own home-grown fruit for a very long time, it will definitely be worth investing that little extra into making sure you give them every opportunity to be successful. Hopefully you might find a few helpful hints, tips and ideas here that you might not have known about. As always, don't hesitate to get in-touch with me if you need to know a little more. Have a wonderful week and enjoy your gardens.😘🌸🌳

Written and edited by Tammy 4th January 2024 Until now I hadn't really considered doing any product reviews. But recently, my curiosity had gotten the better of me to try a few products that had kept popping up in my social media feeds. Our phones are such clever little things, noting our interests then swamping up with temptations, "here's a suggestion for you" or "we think you might like this, based on that". Now be it that I'm kind of into all things gardening, THIS one caught my eye... Survival Seeds- Their story Who are they? Survival seeds are a small family-owned business that came to be in 2020 amidst the COVID lockdown. You might remember in the peak of COVID society went into 'meltdown'. In an attempt to set themselves up as self-sufficient as possible, the frenzied panic buying of everything from toilet paper to vegetable seedlings sore demand outstrip supply. Shelves were bare, and plant nurseries couldn't produce seedlings quick enough. This inspired creator/owner Stuart to follow his instincts out of not only passion, but necessity and set up a small business of producing and selling non genetically modified Heirloom Seeds. His aim was to inspire and encourage all gardeners, current and future generations to become successfully self-sufficient in producing their own food. Survival Seeds-Their product I mentioned they produce their own non genetically modified heirloom seeds. That sounds a bit fancy so what exactly does that mean? Heirloom seeds are open-pollinated, hardy cultivars of fruits and vegetables that have been grown with love, the seeds have been collected and then passed on down through generations, often in excess of 50 years, hence they are cherished for their historical significance. They're generally hardier and more pest and disease resistant than their commercial counterparts that are often overbred for mass production to meet high demand. Heirloom varieties have stood the test of time maintaining their unique full-bodied flavours that make them by far superior. Non genetically modified simply refers to the fact that they're not tampered with or altered in any way. They're grown the good old fashion way outside in the elements with no artificial interventions. Survival Seeds-Value for money They most DEFINATELY are value for money! When you stop to consider the cost of a regular common packet of seed from any retail store being between $5 and $7, Survival seeds are giving you premium quality non-GMO Heirloom seeds at a little over $2.40 per variety within their packs. It goes without saying. Watch my review. Survival Seeds-Give them a try! When you find 'a diamond in the rough' it pays to give it go. It's such a tough industry out there, with so many small businesses trying there absolute hardest for success. This little diamond ticks so many boxes. Home grown family business. Providing a wonderful product that we all would want to see live on, Heirloom variety seeds. Extremely good value for money. Encouraging sustainability and self-sufficiency. They caught my attention and I'm glad they did. I'm giving them a try, and I highly recommend you do too. Here's hoping you all had a wonderful weekend and managed some time out in your gardens. Happy gardening!😘🌸 About Us - Survival Seeds Australia

Written and edited by Tammy. Information source credit to Nicola Bain. 28th January 2024 If you've ever had some of these cute little guys pay your yard a visit, don't be frightened or alarmed, just appreciate them, you may, or may not be aware of how privileged you actually are. Sure, they might make some strange eerie sounds keeping you awake at night and help themselves to some of your fruit bounty but in the bigger scheme of things if we were fully educated as to their significances, we'd understand it's actually a small price to pay. Remember they were actually here well before us, so it's us as a society who have inconvenienced them, not the other way around. Surely, we can find it in our hearts to be a little more lenient and flexible and learn to coexist for the sake of their preservation for future generations. Bat Facts🦇 What are fruit bats? What do fruit bats eat? The important role of fruit bats. Why are fruit bats visiting my garden? What to look for. What can we do? Emergency contact details What are fruit bats? Grey Headed Flying-foxes, a large 'megabat' are one of four flying-fox species in mainland Australia, and they are the only ones we're lucky enough to see here. Their natural habitat spans right the way around the coastline from QLD, through Victoria and into SA, and the coolest thing is that there's actually only one population of them, so the bats you see in Adelaide are the same group of bats you see in Vic, NSW and QLD, so they get around!! What do fruit bats eat? Grey Headed Flying-foxes eat flowers and fruit, but their favourite source of food is Eucalyptus blooms from flowering gums. When that's limited, they'll be tempted by your flowers and fruit trees, be it figs, loquats, pears or stone fruits. I mentioned they were important and significant, but why? The important role of fruit bats. Just like our humble honeybees, bats play the same crucial role as pollinators and furthermore, seed distributors. They feed on nectar from flowers, collecting pollen all over their soft fuzzy little faces and bodies, as they continue to forage moving from one flower or tree to the next, cross-pollination occurs. Did you know they can travel up to 50km in one night?!! Not only are they pollinating but they're carrying the seeds of the fruit they eat and dispersing them along their journey too. In doing this they spread the genetic diversity for our forests throughout the states, ensuring the continued future food source for our Australian Native Wildlife, Koalas, possums and marsupials. These foraging habits make the Grey Headed Flying-fox a keystone species for Eucalyptus woodlands preservation. They really are a species that entire ecosystems rely on for their survival. That's worthy of some respect and recognition. I personally would gladly share a few of my figs or a couple of peaches for that. Why are fruit bats visiting my garden? So, why are we seeing them here now more so than in previous years? The answer to that is that they're literally running out of food elsewhere, it's becoming critical due to climatic factors, unprecedented weather events, fires and floods, and deforestation, they are left with no choice but to keep moving to where the food source is available. What to look for. Where might you see flying foxes? At night, you may notice flying foxes licking nectar from flowering gums, or even in a fruit tree. If you find a group of flying foxes in the day, they may be camping on your property on their way (e.g. resting for a day on a Melbourne – Adelaide trip). Video credit to the Dobie family of Naracoorte SA What can we do What can we do to be respectful of these amazing creatures whilst still preserving our gardens and produce at the same time? Maintain fruit trees to a manageable size. Hang visual deterrents, shiny objects in the trees. Secure fruit protection bags around fruit. If it is necessary to net the tree use netting that has holes no larger than 5mm x 5mm and secure it tautly over the tree. Loose oversized draping nets with larger aperture holes gives rise for the opportunity to occur where the bats can become entangled potentially causing life threatening injuries or worse still mortality. An adult bat losing its life can sadly result in a juvenile being left alone an orphan to starve to death. If you do notice a bat in trouble, PLEASE do not touch it or attempt to help it yourself. It's crucial that you contact a qualified carer/ handler to assist with the situation. Not only do they have the correct training and PPE for handling the animal, but they are vaccinated for the diseases some Australian bats can carry. Bat Rescue SA Hotline 0475 132 093 Do bats carry disease? Australian Bat Lyssavirus is carried by a small proportion of flying-foxes and is only transmitted from bat to human through a bite or scratch from an infected bat. Cases of ABLV are rare, but any bat could carry the disease. If you do not touch a bat, you face no risk. So, if you do find a bat in trouble, please call the authorities so they can send a vaccinated, trained carer/rescuer out to help the bat whilst keeping every human involved safe. If you think you have been bitten or scratched by a bat, seek medical attention immediately. Bat Rescue SA Hotline 0475 132 093 Sadly, a lot of the stigma and negativity surrounding bats comes down to a lack of education, and one of the quickest ways to get around this is to educate ourselves and one another. Take the time to ask some questions to learn more, as we NEVER stop learning. I myself didn't know a whole lot about bats until my curiosity led me to some wonderful ladies in the community who were only too happy to share their knowledge with me. Now that my eyes are opened and I have a better understanding, I'm keen to share with you what I have learned. Maybe you can take the time to share this with your friends and loved ones too. I hope you've all had a wonderful 'Australia Day' long weekend, and the kiddies are keen for the first day back to school tomorrow. As always, Happy Gardening😘🌸🦇 Additional resources: Photo Gallery (Grey Headed Flying-foxes by Doug Gimsey) – https://gimesy.com/galleries/photo-documentary/melbournes-flying-night-gardeners/ No tree, no me. Ted talk by Tim Pearson – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnOhS5jVBFk The Australasian Flying-fox Expert Group – https://www.ausbats.org.au/flying-fox-expert-group.html Wildlife Friendly Fencing and Netting – https://wildlifefriendlyfencing.org/ On Australian Bat Lyssavirus – https://wildlifehealthaustralia.com.au/Portals/0/ResourceCentre/BatHealth/ABLV_Bat_Stats_Jun_2023.pdf

Written and edited by Tammy 20th January 2024 Yet again the grafted flowering gums around our town of Naracoorte SA are looking absolutely breathtaking. This particular one on Rolland Street is in full flower and really is a showstopper. Quite literally, I abandoned my mission to Maccas for a Frappe' to turn around and go back to admire it. Given the size and vibrant Fuchia Pink colour of this particular tree, it's quite possibly a cultivar called 'Cape Crimson' though I can't be entirely certain with there being so many available. They come in a multitude of colours from fairy floss pink, brilliant orange, creamy soft whites, to the ever popular classic Red flowering gum, something for everyone's palette. Being grafted they're adaptable, hardy and offer a greater disease resistance. Varieties range greatly in size from as small as 4 through to 12 meters tall, so there are options for every size garden or yard. If pink isn't your thing, the red flowering gums are in full flower and generously scattered around our town in yards and sidewalks for all to see. If you've got a half an hour to spare over the weekend, go for a drive around and admire them, see how many you can find. Keep cool, have a lovely weekend! Happy gardening 😘🌳

Written and edited by Tammy 16th January 2024 If there's ever been a Summer for breaking weather records this would have to be the one. Not too many parts of Australia have been spared the brunt and devastation of storms and floods. My home country town of Naracoorte in SA recently broke records and made the news receiving more than 5 inches of rain in less than an hour. The consequences and negative impact it's had on our homes and gardens, for some, has been heartbreaking. The obvious damage in our gardens after storms is always snapped branches and broken limbs, but in the wake of what we've recently seen, comes a host of other issues we're less familiar with. Storm damage issues Nutrient Leaching Drowning Physical damage Pests and disease Nutrient Leaching Nutrient leaching occurs when excessive volumes of water flush all the nutrients from the soil leaving it infertile, often eroding away any mulch and top layers of soil in the process. Within a couple of weeks, the first obvious signs might be interveinal chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves between the veins) then progressing on to foliage drop. Pictured right is my little Trixzee ™️ minature peach that started the season looking lush and green then progressed to this state quickly after the 5 inches of rain we had. After some evaluations I concluded that it was a nutrient deficiency, most likely as a result of all the rain. What to do When any plant is stressed and unhappy always start out with Seasol Complete Garden Health Treatment. Being a soluble health tonic, it's taken in and utilised by the plant almost immediately to boost its immune system, overcome stress and stimulate the roots to encourage nutrient uptake. My tree was treated with both Seasol health treatment AND Seasol liquid PowerFeed fertiliser together at the same time (it is completely safe to do) and I'm continuing to do so at fortnightly intervals monitoring the change. The two products have very different purposes. The health treatment (in the white bottle) is a plant derivative made from kelps, lower in nutrients and ideal as a health treatment, while PowerFeed (in the green bottle) derived of fish, contains Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium (NPK) so it's a complete fertiliser. Both products have a low percentage of Phosphorus, so they are completely safe for natives as well. NOTE* Seven days after commencing treatment, you can see the yellowing is less severe and the newly emerging foliage is beginning to green up. Drowning Drowning is another issue that can arise. Plants need oxygen just like us, heavy clay soils don't drain easily, and when they become water-logged, there's little to no oxygen available essentially leading to plants drowning. Potted plants can also become victims of drowning if they're not up off the ground to be able to drain freely, or if the drainage holes become blocked with matted roots. You'll need to Drain away as much water as possible and allow the pot to dry out. Consider repotting into fresh potting soil if necessary, and make sure your pot sits up on pot feet or something to elevate it off the ground to aid drainage. Plants in the ground can be a little trickier. Try the following. Lift and transplant less mature plants if practical to do so. Aerate the soil once it has dried enough. Add and turn through compost and organic matter to improve the soil structure and nutrient availability. Apply and Incorporate gypsum. Gypsum aids drainage in heavy soils. Mound up extra soil to create raised beds up above the original ground level. Plants that can't be transplanted or moved should be given Seasol heath treatment and pruned back to lessen their workload and help them recover. Physical damage The added weight of heavy rain combined with gale force winds can cause large tree limbs to fall and bushy overgrown shrubs to snap and break. In some instances, a combination of sodden wet soil and strong winds can be enough to partially dislodge and loosen roots from the soil, or even uproot them entirely. How to repair and prevent Prune back and dead head regularly to eliminate excess weight on the plant. Not only will it lower the risk of further damage in future storms, but it will allow for air circulation in the canopy of the plant which helps prevent disease. Pruning back also benefits the plant by encouraging a flush of fresh new growth. Pests and diseases Continued heavy rainfall events in the warm weather bring with it humidity, making conditions ideal for fungal diseases and insects to breed and thrive. If not caught in time, it can only take a matter of days for things to become critical. How to treat and eliminate Routinely check for evidence of insect infestations, Rust, Powdery Mildew and Black Spot. Treat with fungicides and insecticides. Earthcare Rose Black Spot & insect spray or/Sharp Shooter Rose Black Spot & insect have the advantage of being dual action, helping to kill and control fungal diseases and pests. Follow up with Seasol Health treatment as a complimentary to help the plant overcome its challenges. Powdery Mildew ☘️ Tip* Don't forget to turn off automatic irrigation systems, it won't be necessary for a while until things dry out a little. There'd be nothing worse than unknowingly contributing to the issues. With the unpredictably of our weather and the extremes of each event becoming more frequent, I think we need to be as pro-active and as well educated as we can with how to prevent and treat the challenges as they arise. As always, happy gardening. 😘🌸

Written and edited by Tammy 30th October 2023 image of powdery mildew on Zucchini leaves curtesy of gardenerspath.com With Spring now in full swing and summer vegetable seedlings going into the ground left right and centre, powdery mildew becomes a hot topic. If you're vigilant and know what to look out for, and perhaps even what precautions to have in place, you'll be able to act quickly if it does show up for the party! Identifying powdery mildew Powdery mildew is a fungal disease. The first sign is white powdery looking spots, Mycelium (the fancy word for fungi tissue) spreading all over the leaves. The foliage might also start to look yellow and 'washed out' in colour and become either wilted and or crispy and deformed around the leaf margins as it spreads and advances. Not that you can see them, but the spores live on plant debris on the ground and when conditions become favourable, they're transferred by wind, insects and animals from plant to plant. Favourable conditions Cool humid nights in conjunction with warm dry days are the perfect conditions for powdery mildew spores to grow and reproduce. Think of the growing requirements for mushroom kits, they require a cool dark environment, so it makes sense powdery mildew also being a fungus needs the same, an environment that offers low light and lack of air circulation. Most susceptible So many plants are susceptible to powdery mildew, and a lot of them are things we grow right now in spring coinciding with those cool balmy nights, and warm windy days. Here's a handful of the most common ones you'll likely have in your garden right now. The Cucurbitaceae family including zucchinis, squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, and melons. Solanaceae the Nightshade family including tomatoes, eggplants, chillies and capsicums. Strawberries The Fabaceae Legumes family including beans, peas and soybeans. Roses Hydrangeas Prevention As always, 'prevention is better than cure' the more measures you can put in place to lower the risk the better. Allow as much light and air circulation into and amongst the foliage as possible. Give each plant its own space, don't overcrowd them. Remove any old, spent or diseased lower leaves. Locate your vegetable patch where it will get at least 6-8 hours sunlight a day. Water in the mornings so the foliage has time to dry and isn't wet into the cool of the evening. Routinely apply Seasol Health Treatment to improve disease resistance and maintain a strong healthy immune system. Treatment Remove any diseased affected foliage. Treat with Eco Neem Oil, Lime Sulphur, Liquid Copper or a fungicide product of your choice. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the label for rates and directions for use. If you'd prefer a more natural approach, you could try mixing a 40/60 ratio of milk and water. Milk has fantastic natural antibacterial and antifungal properties. You can also try 1 teaspoon of Bicarb Soda, to 1 litre of water and a few drops of dish liquid (biodegradable with no phosphates) the dish liquid just acts as an adjuvant to help the bicarb to adhere. Whichever of the above options you choose to go with, you won't reverse the obvious damage to the existing foliage, but by killing the spores that are present, you'll prevent the new emerging foliage from being infected. Watch to see the new foliage looking healthy and disease free to know the infestation has been successfully brought under control and eliminated. Follow a few of these little hints and tips and hopefully you'll avoid the dreaded 'powdery mildew' or worse-case scenario, know how to treat it if you notice it. Have a wonderful week, and enjoy your gardens 😘🌸

Written and edited by Tammy 29th January 2023 I had the privilege of spending some time over the weekend with some wonderful clients in two very different but unique and beautiful gardens. Both these gardens happen to be at the Southern end of our town up on a massive sand hill, and although there were distinct differences in the owners' tastes and styling, there were some similarities that become apparent. The owners shared with me that they began with nothing more than a bare sandy paddock with an odd stringybark tree and some bracken fern. The sand is fine white grey non wetting sand, that lacks structure and nutrition. I was blown away and in awe with the vibrance and health of both gardens, but then not so surprised once I learned they actually have very good quality water (a glass of water from the garden tap tasted almost as good as that from my rainwater tank at home). I also learned that there's natural spring water flowing directly beneath that area of town. Very lucky indeed!! Regardless of their luck with good quality water, the most important relevant thing I think I need to mention is the theme of plant selection. Both gardens were dominated by plants such as Banksias, Leucadendron, Proteas', Grevilleas, Myrtles, New Zealand Flaxes and Salvias'. Salvias seem to grow like weeds in the sand! These varieties of plants are happy in a free draining sandy environment, with lower water requirements once established. Mulching is also extremely important. Both clients spend a lot of time and money maintaining generous amounts of mulch throughout their gardens which not only acts as insulation to help hold the moisture in but, also in time breaks down adding nutrients to the soil benefitting the microbials. Out of curiosity, we dug down approximately 30cm to the root zone in an area in one of the gardens and found it to still be nice and damp with a neutral pH of 7.5 The owner said they don't water every day; they only give a couple of good deep soaks per week to their less mature plants whilst they are establishing. In conclusion, I think it's about working with what we have. If you have the type of soil and environment, we've just looked at here, you're perhaps best to go with natives, grasses, succulents and drought hardy plants. On the other hand, if you have a cooler shady garden with richer heavier soils, these types of plants would more than likely have a battle so you would be better to go with clivias, hellebores, hydrangeas and other lush leafier green foliage types of plants. Choose smarter, not harder. And a massive thankyou to the lovely, generous people who welcomed me into their homes and gardens this weekend... you know who you are ❤️🌳❤️🌳❤️ Happy gardening!

Written and edited by Tammy 17th March 2023 Hands up who knows why we have such hard water here in the Limestone Coast? There's a little clue in that I'm going to share with you, but first I'm going to back track a little. A few years ago now, my employer at the time, a mentor I have the utmost respect for, asked was I interested in studying a course in The Science of Gardening. My entire life I've loved gardening but at that point, I had no formal training or education in the industry. I thought to myself...."why not, I'll give it a go, I've got nothing to lose, and it might even help me in my new job". Who knew the passion and thirst for knowledge within the industry it would spark within me. Fast forward 6 years to now, my understanding and appreciation of Horticulture is so much more than I could have ever imagined. Thankyou Andew. Now you ask what relevance does this have to hard water?? Well, that was the first module I studied in the science of gardening, and where it all began. I mentioned there being a little clue; we live in the Limestone Coast. I'm not going to be specific about dates, or get too detailed, you can research further for yourself If that is what you desire, it's actually really interesting.....but millions of years ago the ocean covered Naracoorte and beyond, all the limestone beneath us formed and sea creatures inhabited the caves, their calcareous, fossilised remains can still be seen today. Here's the part that becomes relevant to you and I as gardeners. Rain falls from the sky, as it washes down through the layers of soil and limestone (the main components of limestone are calcium and magnesium) those minerals among others are carried on down into the underground aquifer. Water containing hard minerals equates to hard water. Where does our towns water supply come from? It's drawn up from bores that tap into that underground aquifer. You may remember a couple of my earlier posts, I spoke of soil health, understanding soil pH and, the constraints of soil alkalinity. If not, perhaps refer back and have a read as it ties in and has relevance to this. When watering our gardens, we think we're doing the right thing giving them a quick regular drink every day, were actually doing a huge injustice. Giving them frequent short drinks allows those hard minerals, calcium and magnesium in the water to build up within the rootzone of the plants. This results in highly alkaline soil and consequently leads to nutrient lock up. Your plants can't derive nutrients from the soil as they become bound to the soil particles. If you see crusting on top of your soil surrounding your plants or a white residue on the leaves then they proceed to yellow and burn, there's a pretty good chance hard water will be a major contributing factor. So what can we do? You can pick yourself up a TDS Meter for not a huge expense and test your water for yourself, or you could always send a sample off for a more extensive analysis. A TDS meter is a simple small handheld device, that measures Total Dissolved Solids within your water in a measurement of PPM (parts per million). 500ppm is the maximum level recommended by the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) to be safe drinking water. Anything above 500 is deemed not potable drinking water, and understandably, your plants and gardens aren't going to like it either for the reasons I've just explained. It really is crucial that you water your gardens less frequently but give long, slow deep soakings so each watering flushes the minerals down deeper through the soil profile. If you're fortunate enough to have an ample supply of rainwater to use for your plants that would be the ideal, nothing beats rain from the sky, it's liquid gold. Another option you could look into, though it might not suit everyone's budget is an 'Ion Exchange' water conditioner. Without getting too technical, it's a means of being able to deal with the calcium and magnesium in the water with a device fitted to your mains water supply. In conclusion, we have always had issues throughout our region with hard water. The key is to understand it, acknowledge it, and try to find ways to deal with it so it doesn't hinder our efforts to have a beautiful garden. If you are keen to investigate your options a little further, pop in to one of our local businesses such as Lawrences Irrigation and they should be able to give you some advice on your options. Have a wonderful weekend and enjoy your gardens. 😘🌸🪴

Written and edited by Tammy 21th March 2023 Xanthorrhoea australis Australian Native Grass Trees. Commonly known as 'Yaccas or Blackboys'. There's something magical and enchanting about walking amongst hundreds of grass trees, towering almost twice your height in virgin scrub, never cleared by man. Native to Australia, grass trees, or Blackboys thrive in nutrient poor, rocky, sandy free draining soil. They're extremely slow growing, only gaining about 1cm a year. They can reach heights of up to 5 meters tall, with the flower spikes themselves reaching another meter or more beyond that. Imagine with a growth rate like that just how old beauties like these could potentially be, hundreds of years old! Aboriginals, referred to them as Blackboys because black trunks are exposed after a fire. The trunk isn't solid like a regular gum tree; it actually comprises all the tightly packed stems of the previous seasons' whorls of foliage. Grass trees flower at their best sending up fresh new spikes after a fire has swept through. If you're thinking about having a crack at growing a Blackboy as a feature in your garden (and why wouldn't you!! they truly are something) don't go and dig one up from the side of the road. Firstly, it is illegal, secondly, it will more than likely die due to having it's roots and its location disturbed, they don't like it. They aren't cheap, you'll be set back $120 upwards for an established one, keep in mind how slow they grow, it can be a few years before they reach a size where the begin to flower. Don't be tempted to fuss over them too much or you will kill them with love. Think carefully about replicating the natural habitat they come from. A full sun, free draining sandy soil and don't overwater them. If anything, once they're established the annual rainfall is probably adequate. Just imagine, your kid's kids admiring and sharing with their kids the beautiful grass tree that their great grandparents planted a long time ago. Consider a Native Grass Tree. Happy Gardening🪴😘🌸