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Snowflakes Written and edited by Tammy 29th March 2025 Autumn is undoubtedly one of the nicest times of the year to enjoy our gardens. Leaves on deciduous trees transition through stunning shades of red, orange, yellow, and brown. Gardens everywhere take on an almost serene feel, that feeling of winding down...a deep sigh. But it's not time to wind down.... with the hot days finally becoming fewer it's the perfect time to get back out in the garden and start prepping for and planting those spring flowering bulbs. Why's it important to plant them now? Good question. The shortening day lengths sees our soils begin to cool, so planting now gives spring bulbs the optimal chill time they need to produce those stunning blooms. Most bulbs need somewhere between 12-16 weeks to chill, if you're in a cool climate like we are here in the lower SE of South Australia, there's no need to chill the likes of tulips in the fridge, our winter ground temperatures are adequate. ("Chilling" or chill time is the equivalent of, or alternative terminology for dormancy). They need a period of dormancy before awakening in Spring. How do I plant them? Another good question. The golden rule, to achieve that nice full look, is to plant your bulbs 'cheek to cheek' (just touching one another), and at a depth of two to three times the width of the bulb. A nice, large round daffodil is probably going to be between 3 to 4 inches deep down, whereas a little freesia may be barely 1 inch down. Feeding them If sowing them into your garden beds, improve your soil first by incorporating some well-aged animal manure or compost, and some blood and bone. Once they're sown, top dress with a handful of organic all-purpose balanced fertiliser, my favourite is Neutrog Rapid Raiser. Providing them with nutrition at the time of sowing means it's there in the ground ready for them to utilise as soon as they awaken from dormancy. Hydration Settle them in with a good drink of water and a dash of Seasol Health treatment for good measure. Continue to water them at regular intervals to maintain just enough moisture, but without leaving them waterlogged. Mulch Make sure you apply a layer of mulch once they're settled in. The mulch does multiple things. It helps to maintain the level of moisture in the ground, and more importantly it acts as an insulation blanket, preventing them from being affected by frosts and extreme dips in temperature. Spring flowering bulbs The variety of bulbs to choose from is endless! Snowflakes, Daffodils, Freesias, Irises, Tulips, Ranunculi, Hyacinth, Anemones and more, you really can have some fun. A little Inspiration 🌷 Dressing up an otherwise empty dull corner of a courtyard or patio with a lovely large pot planted up with an assortment of bulbs and other complimentary cascading perennials can really brighten things up, bringing it to life. There are a few advantages to planting bulbs in pots and containers. They'll be mobile! You can move them around to suit your mood. You’ll know exactly where your babies are. There's no chance you'll accidentally chop them up or lose them digging around in the garden throughout the rest of the year. Finally, Bulbs need good quality, moist but free draining soil. Planting them in containers in a premium potting medium will ensure they get this. You've heard the expression ‘less is more’? Keep it simple. Try mass displays of only one or two contrasting colours to create a real wow factor. Mass planting of blue and white Hyacinth illustration There's also nothing wrong with scattering them randomly or in clumps throughout your garden beds, making for a lovely surprise when they reappear the following season. Kindy's and Primary schools often run bulb fundraisers early in the new year. It's a great opportunity to stock up on some bulbs while supporting the schools at the same time. If the kids are past that age, you'll find most of your major leading outlets start stocking them in early Autumn, which for us here is now. There never really is a quiet time of the year in the gardens as there's always something to prepare, prune, plant, lift, divide or just shuffle around. Maybe I've inspired you even just a little, if you've got some spare empty pots, or space in the garden, grab yourself some bulbs and get planting. Happy Gardening!😘🌹🌸

Written and edited by Tammy 8th March 2025. Hares foot fern Davallia canariensis Do you want to know my favourite thing about walking into my bathroom every morning?... Revelling in the sheer beauty and vibrance of my Hares foot fern davallia canariensis. I still don't entirely understand my infatuation with them, I have the gravest phobia of spiders and the furry Rhizomes that crawl out of the centre of the plant closely resemble that of a huntsman spider.... Nevertheless, they're one of my favourite indoor plants that I seem to be successful in growing. Rhizomes clinging to the outside of the basket Hairy rhizomes Caring for a Hares foot fern Davallia canariensis Davallia canariensis commonly known as hares-foot fern or rabbits-foot fern is native to the Canary Islands hence the name. They have the daintiest fine dark green fronds, that grow on the furry little crawling appendages called rhizomes. Size They can potentially grow up to 50cm in height and spread to cover an area of 100cm. Mine, in the main picture at the top of the page progressed into a 20cm pot about 6 months ago once it began infringing on our personal space brushing our teeth each day, sitting where it was beside the sink. Amazing how quick they grow when they're happy. Now hanging from the ceiling in the bathroom, it's quickly reached a size of almost 80cm from its top to the lowest point of the fronds below. Habitat In their natural habitat these ferns are epiphytic meaning, they grow on other host plants, or in rock crevasses with their rhizomes deriving moisture and nutrients from the air, so it's important not to trim back or disturb them. Light preferences They like a bright filtered light (not direct) and need to be kept moist at all times but not sodden. Misting the fronds to create humidity is favourable or if you've got room in your bathroom that gets steamy, better still. Mine is in the bathroom on the Northern side of the house where it's always nice and bright and it's thriving in there. Fertiliser/ what to feed them As with all my indoor plants, once or twice throughout the warmer months when they're actively growing, I give them a dose of soluble fertiliser, Seasol Powerfeed, and Seasol Health Treatment. I also throw on a spoonful of Munash Organics Indoor plant soil food. Its key ingredient is natural rock minerals sourced from volcanic rock in Victoria and made right there in Ballarat Victoria. My plants seem to like it and respond to it really well, so I keep using it. As always, please make sure you use the products as per the manufacturer's instructions on the labels. I wonder how many others are scared of spiders yet love these plants like me🪴😍 Happy Gardening!

Healthy Indoors plants Written and edited by Tammy 6th March 2025 Diagnosing what’s wrong with a sick or dying plant can be tricky stuff, they can exhibit a whole host of symptoms that may indicate different underlying issues. Environmental conditions, pest infestations, nutrient deficiencies, and diseases all come into play so having an understanding of these elements really is important to be able to diagnose a sick plant successfully. Just as doctors ask questions, listening for clues and observing the physical symptoms, so do I when faced with an unhappy plant. Each symptom can tell a story about the plant's condition and the potential problems it faces. Yellowing leaves might suggest overwatering or nutrient deficiencies, while brown, crispy edges could indicate underwatering or environmental stress. It can be a complex puzzle, and by no means do I profess to have all the answers, but it's those challenges that I enjoy every day. Possible reasons your plant is sick There are three different possible scenarios, a pest, disease, or a disorder. Definitions: Pests- Insects, mites, rodents, animals. Disease- A fungal, viral or bacterial infection. Disorder- Abnormality in the way a plant is growing as a result of incorrect or inconsistencies in water, nutrition or exposure to climatic and soil conditions. What to look for Pests Disease Disorder Evidence of pests Pests eat plants. Sometimes the clues they leave behind can be obvious while other times not so much. Different sized insects and animals AKA 'Pests', leave different evidence of their feastings behind. Mites are microscopic, (barely visible to the naked eye) sap suckers that leave the foliage looking yellow, drained of goodness and washed out. You may even notice fine, almost web-like dust on the under sides of the leaves. They LOVE our indoor plants. Leaf borers or leaf miners leave wiggly white lines or rather tracks throughout the membranes of the leaves. (pictured above) Also sucking insects, Aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and thrips are all a little larger and visible to the eye. These types of insects often leave their secretions behind called 'Honeydew'. A sweet, sugary substance that goes onto to become black and mouldy, not before the ants come marching in droves! (Recognising scale👉 ) Caterpillars, snails, slugs and grasshoppers are all munchers and crunchers, they leave obvious holes in the foliage if they leave anything at all! Larger pests like birds, rats, rabbits and possums will devour small, tender delectable little seedlings and leave not much more than maybe a stem as evidence that they existed. Possums LOVE our roses and fruit trees. I've seen young fruit trees, and new seasons growth on roses stripped of everything bar the stems of the leaves. (Dealing with snails👉 ) Rabbits, Kangaroos and rural livestock are renowned for 'ringbarking' young trees (removing the outer layer of the trunk)-but then so can a whipper snipper (ask my passionfruit vine what happened the day I took home a new Makita line trimmer🤭) Larger animals if given the opportunity to get into the veggie patch, may leave your plants crushed, broken and perhaps even pulled from the ground in the way that they graze. Above left- Grasshopper. Centre- Aphids. Right- Earwig. Below left- Mealy bugs. Centre- Scale. Right- White fly. Evidence of disease These next two scenarios are kind of closely connected. Often, disease takes hold in a plant as a result of the same inconsistencies that lead to a diagnosis of a disorder. Avoiding situations that lead to disorders can often prevent them being susceptible to disease. Three of the most commonly seen diseases in our home gardens are Black Spot, Powdery Mildew and Rust, all fungal diseases manageable with fungicides. Copper oxychloride and Lime sulphur are two of the most common fungicides on the market along-side more natural friendly alternatives like milk or bicarb soda. Black spot will be all too familiar for anyone who has ever grown roses. Almost always seen on roses towards the later part of the season when they're tired and running out of puff, particularly where there is over crowding of foliage, creating a lack or air circulation. A lack of air circulation combined with the right degree of humidity (moisture in the air) creates the perfect breeding ground for not only black spot, but for most fungal diseases. Early stages will look like perfect round black spots randomly spread over the leaves. As it progresses those leaves lose their green pigmentation turning yellow, then finally falling from the plant. ( Black Spot check out my previous article on black spot and pruning roses👉 ) Powdery Mildew begins will small powdery white looking blemishes on the leaves and stems. It progresses to cover the entire leaf surface with the foliage eventually shrivelling and dying. Commonly see on Zucchini's, pumpkins, melons and cucumbers. Hydrangeas and grape vines, edible and ornamental are also highly susceptible. ( I'll show you a little more on managing powdery mildew👉 ) Rust is something our farmers are constantly on the lookout for in their wheat and barley crops, it can be a problematic issue for them most seasons. Easily identifiable by the presence of tiny, raised almost fuzzy looking orange, red or brown spots. Keep an eye out for it on veggies like tomatoes, peas and beans, and amongst flowering annuals, calendulas, snapdragons, gerberas, hollyhocks and geraniums will be the most susceptible. Evidence of disorders Diagnosing a disorder can be a lot trickier than an obvious pest infestation or a disease, as a lot more factors come into play. A disorder can be summed up as any situation where a plant doesn't look as it should or isn't performing as it should be relating to water, nutrition, environment or climatic factors. Process of elimination- if there's no evidence of pests, or disease, then it has to be a disorder. (the fun part is establishing which one it is!) Nutritional deficiencies or toxicities for want of a better way to describe it, plants need the right proportions of nutrients from all the 'food groups' just like us. Think of the healthy food pyramid, although their food pyramid would look a little different from ours, but the concept is the same. Too much or not enough of one thing will see them screaming out to us with clues ranging from a lack of pigmentation, to curling of leaves, too much pigmentation and crispy burned leaf margins amongst others. HINT** Often a customer will approach me asking for Iron to take home and treat their yellow plant. In some instances, they'll be 'bang on the money' that it is an Iron deficiency, but if you're not 100% certain, resist the temptation to treat is as such, because you could potentially cause further issues poisoning your plant with something it never in fact needed. Always err on the side of caution, do a little homework first. (Checkout this article I wrote a little while ago now on reasons your plant may be yellow👉) Hydration A plant can look wilted and droopy because it's thirsty, on the other hand it can look droopy if it's lacking in oxygen/drowning too. HINT**I mentioned earlier that disorders can sometimes lead to disease? Root rot in indoor plants is a disease that unfortunately occurs as a direct result of too much water/wrong potting medium. What is your watering rescheme? How much water does this particular plant actually need? Has your soil become hydrophobic not allowing it to take in and hold water, or on the other hand, is it holding too much water drowning it, should it be planted in a more, free draining medium? All questions taken into consideration if a hydration disorder is suspected. Burned shrivelled foliage can also be a result of inadequate water. Climatic conditions, soil & light can most definitely come into play when assessing why a plant is unwell or is failing to thrive. Knowing the climate zone and habitat a plant originates from can tell us a lot more about its preferences, and the environment it will most likely thrive in. A plant that originates from a hot, arid climate, quite likely has the ability to store water in its roots or fleshy leaves (think cacti and succulents), some have small fine needle like foliage to minimise the opportunity to burn in the sun and lessen its need for water. (think of native coastal rosemary or saltbush). Plants like these will most likely fail to thrive and struggle in a heavy rich soil in full shade, just as ferns, fuchsias and hydrangeas will quite likely burn and shrivel in sandy soil, in the full hot afternoon sun. Stunning Hydrangeas growing in a sink hole. Mount Gambier SA. Being able to look at a plant and establish what is wrong with it, is not something you can learn overnight. It's knowing what to look for and where. Being able to look at a plant's characteristics, for clues to its origins to know what its preferences are. It's a whole jigsaw puzzle that comes together to build a picture. It's a skill that has taken me personally, years of study along-side working with plants every day to become confident with, and I'm still learning something new every day. We never stop learning. I hope there are some useful clues here that might help you to work out why your plant may be sick. And if all else fails, please reach out, send me a message and we can work it out together. Or our lovely Limestone Coast locals will know where to find me. Keep praying for rain, it's bound to come soon. Happy gardening 😘🪴🌸

Interveinal chlorosis on my peach tree A common issue we all deal with at some stage as gardeners is yellowing foliage. Take a look at the example pictured above, it's my own Trixzee™️ Miniature Peach tree which always looks amazing, lush and green each season, but, for some reason in the last 6 weeks it's turned a horrifying yellow colour. There are a number of possibilities. To better understand what causes yellowing let's back up a little first and look at how and why plants are green. Healthy plants produce chlorophyll, chlorophyll is the pigment responsible for them appearing green. Plants need to be green to be able to photosynthesise, it's how they harness energy from the sun to generate food for themselves. Possibility 1 - Incorrect pH If the pH is too high (Alkaline) or too low (Acidic) this will result in either 'nutrient lock up' an inability for the plant to access nutrients from the soil, or toxicity , essentially poisoning the plant. Symptoms Not only might the plant appear yellow, but it could possibly have burnt crispy leaf margins, possibly be stunted in growth and overall, be performing poorly. Remedy Determine the soil pH with a soil pH test kit and amend with either Elemental Sulphur if it's too Alkaline or Dolomite Lime if it's too Acidic to bring it back to within the ideal range recommended for the plant. Once the plant is back within its recommended pH range it will be better able to derive nutrients from the soil when you feed it. Possibility 2 -Hunger, lack of nutrients Plants use a massive amount of energy and nutrients Nitrogen Phosphorus and Potassium (NPK) to grow and bear fruit and flowers. Reason A plant may be hungry and lacking in nutrients due to it not having been fertilised, it's ran out of nutrients as it's taken up all that was there available, or perhaps recent heavy rains has leeched the nutrients from the soil. A lack of nutrients can be responsible for yellowing. Remedy Apply a soluble fertiliser such as Seasol Powerfeed weekly to fortnightly alongside a quality organic pelletised fertiliser such as Neutrog Rapid Raiser. The soluble fertiliser will benefit the plant by being taken up straight away, and the pellets will be taken in gradually as they break down. Possibility 3 - Magnesium deficiency Magnesium, a secondary macronutrient is a close runner up behind NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium) in its importance to a plant, it's the central core ion of chlorophill. It also plays a vital role in the metabolism of phosphorus and is responsible for the uptake and mobility of water within a plant. Sandy and acidic soils are more likely to be magnesium deficient. Symptoms Yellowing between the veins ( interveinal chlorosis ) initially in the older mature foliage progressing to the younger foliage as well. The plant may also be slow in its growth and development, and the fruit or vegetable yield may be low. Remedy Apply Epsom Salts (which is Magnesium). Manutec Magnesium Sulphate Possibility 4 - Iron deficiency Poor quality soils lacking in organic matter, heavy rain events or over watering, incorrect pH, or an imbalance of nutrients are all issues that could result in an Iron deficiency. Iron deficiency is a common issue in acid loving plants, Hydrangeas, Blueberries, Rhododendrons and Azaleas. Symptoms The new young foliage may appear pale yellow to almost white. Remedy Apply chelated iron as per the instructions for rates on the label, it may take a couple of applications to see the plant green up again. Along with applying iron, aim to rectify the underlying issues that led to the deficiency in the first place. Apply sulphur or lime to bring the pH back to the preferred range for your plant if the pH was the issue. If your soil lacks organic matter, add compost, animal manures and mulch to feed and improve the quality of the soil. Take a look at the image here below which shows the distribution of the yellowing. A visual cue might help you determine what's caused your yellowing. Image property of Mygardenlife.com Yellowing plants It can be like solving a jigsaw puzzle trying to determine what's causing your yellowing. Climatic factors such as recent weather events, the type of soil you have, and pH or nutrient imbalances can all be responsible. Try using a process of elimination beginning with the pH to determine which it is. Feel welcome to ask a question or share your experiences in the comments below. Have a lovely weekend, and as always Happy Gardening!😘🌸🌿

Agave Havardiana 'Harvard' Written and edited by Tammy 3rd January 2025 When it comes to searching for plants for your garden that are, hardy, drought tolerant, frost tolerant all the while looking smart and stylish in design, look for plants with silver or grey coloured foliage. But “why grey, what's so good about it?” You’ll notice silver or grey coloured plants have either fine soft hairy foliage, a tough leathery surface or a waxy coating. Often, they’ll have smaller, fine of even needle like leaves. It’s these features that are attributed to the plant’s place of origin, mostly a hot arid climate, and are its defence mechanisms or coping strategies for that climate it originates. Frost tolerance- fine hairs or a waxy coating prevent frost from being able to make contact with the plant’s leaf or stem surfaces. Bit like the plant has its own coat of armour on! Drought resistance- the finer the foliage the lesser the demand for water is, in comparison to large lush leafy green foliage. Makes sense! Temperature extremes- less leaf surface and foliage exposed to direct sun also equals less opportunity for sun burn. The same applies to plants with a waxy or leathery exterior. You can liken it to the plant having its on natural sunscreen on. I've put together a list here for you of some of my favourites. 12 best silver grey foliage plants Pigs Ears, Cotyledon Orbiculata   Silver Spurflower Plectranthus Argenttatus Liquorice plant Helichrysum petiolare Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum   Lamb's Ears Stachys byzantina Silver Dust, Dusty Miller or Silver Ragwort Senecio cineraria   ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ Eremophila Glabra Angels wings Scenecio candicans Native Coastal Rosemary 'Smokey' Westringia Fruticosa   Silver Cushion Bush Calocephalus Brownii Salt bush 'Grey Edge' Rhagodia parabolica   English Lavender Lavendula angustifolia   Cotyedon Orbiculata Pigs Ears Pigs Ears, Cotyledon Orbiculata Commonly known as Pigs Ears, Cotyledon Orbiculata is striking succulent with large, waxy, silver white leaves potentially reaching 1m x 1m in height and width. A perfect plant for a standout contrast of colour in garden beds or rockeries, or you could even use it in pots and containers. It contrasts beautifully against the strappy red phormiums pictured here above. Being a succulent it's also EASY peezy to propagate making them good value. Plectranthus Argentatus Spurflower Plectranthus Silver Spurflower With velvet-like soft grey, foliage, Plectranthus Argenttatus Silver Spurflower will happily grow Indoors in a bright, well-lit room just as happily as it will outdoors. Prefers a good organic, free draining, sandy loam. Add it to a beautiful big urn as a feature or showcase it as an underplanting beneath a lovely big shade tree. Reaching approximately 60cm -1m in height and equally as wide, striking mauve or white flower spires bloom throughout the warmer months. Helichrysum Petiolare Licorice Plant Helichrysum Petiolare Licorice Plant Helichrysum petiolare , commonly known as Liquorice plant is a fantastic little spreading ground cover that grows to around 50cm tall by 1.5 meters wide. Small fleshy green leaves covered with silvery white fuzz are complimented by dainty white flowers in the warmer months. Perfect for edges, border and fillers. Reaches approximately 50cm in height and can spread upto 1.5m wide. Convolvulus Cneorum Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum Silver Bush. This one is definitely a standout performer and has won awards rightly so. A dense, bushy, spreading shrub covered in masses of glory type white flowers right throughout the warmer months. Grows to approximately 60cm tall x 1.5meters wide, the perfect plant suited to all situations from borders, edges, mass displays, containers and pots. Extremely good drought tolerance once established. (This is the one I've mass planted throughout the Naracoorte K&B Mitre 10 car park garden beds. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/silver-bush-convolvulus-cneorum ) Stachys Byzantina Lambs Ears Stachys byzantina Lambs Ears Stachys byzantina , Lamb's Ears, a beautiful quirky little ground cover well known for its velvety, soft, fuzzy leaves, truly resembling lambs' ears. A quick spreader that thrives in full sun, and well-drained soils. Reaching aprox 30-50cm tall and spreads upto 1m or more. Giving it a regular drink and the occasional light trim back over the warmer months will keep it looking good and prevent it becoming leggy. Makes for a lovely mass planted filler. Scenecio Cineraria Silver Dust Senecio cineraria  Silver Dust Senecio cineraria Silver Dust, Dusty Miller or Silver Ragwort. This one always reminds me of snow flakes. A small compact hardy shrub growing to only around 30cm in height and width. Occasional clusters of small yellow insignificant flowers in Spring, but its prized feature really is its silvery white foliage. Prefers full sun to partial shade in free draining, sandy or loamy soils. Moderate water requirements but does like to dry out between drinks. Tolerative of the cold but can be a little frost sensitive. Propagates easily from seed.  Perfect pop of contrasting colour and texture for pots, containers, and cottage garden beds. Eremophila Glabra Kalbarri Carpet Eremophila Glabra ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ Eremophila Glabra ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ An award winning, hardy Australian native ground cover, d istinguishable by its fine, narrow, silvery grey foliage, and slender, tubular, yellow flowers throughout Spring and Summer. Thrives in an arid climate and tolerative of drought conditions. Prefers a full sun aspect in well-drained sandy or loamy soils and has low water requirements once established. Reaching 30-40cm in height and spreading up to 2m, its perfect for dry native landscape style gardens and better still, ideal for preventing and overcoming soil erosion.  Birds, native wildlife and pollinators will thank you for planting natives too as you'll be providing them with a source of food and shelter. Scenecio Candicans Angel's Wings Scenecio candicans  Angels wings Scenecio candicans Angels wings are a real show-stopper with their large, heart shaped, velvety silver white foliage. The leaves themselves, you could almost liken them to that of the Liquorice plant I also rated here just prior..... only a lot larger! A popular choice for indoors and outdoors not only for their striking foliage, but for their ability to purify the air as well. Their bushy, compact growth habit sees them reaching potentially 30-90cm tall and equally as wide. Loves a bright indirect light if inside and a morning sun to part shade if outside. Think of that spot beneath a beautiful big shade tree that sees the early to mid-day sun. A free draining soil or potting medium is ideal, and only water when the top inch of soil is dry. Susceptible to root rot if over watered and not keen on frosts either. Senecios' are a succulent, so think of the requirements of your other succulents. Perfect plant to use as a 'filler' under planting to go with something taller, in a "thrill, fill & spill' large urn, pot or container. Let your imagination go wild! (Have to say I love love love Scenecio Serpens 'Blue Chalk sticks' too in mass plantings. Another real architectural one 😁🪴) Westringia Fruticosa Smokey Var. Westringia Fruticosa ‘Smokey’ Westringia Fruticosa 'Smokey' also known as a native coastal rosemary. Westringias' come in a large variety of cultivars, each one unique in the shape, size and colour growth habits. Smokey is a lovely, variegated form with dainty white to pale mauve flowers from Spring through into Summer. It has a dense, bushy, compact growth habit reaching between 1 to 1.5 meters tall and wide. A warm arid climate plant, they prefer full sun to part shade, and a well-drained sandy to sandy loan soil. Drought-tolerant once established, a moderate watering is all they need over long dry periods. Perfectly suited to coastal gardens, borders and hedges, and even more so if attracting, birds, bees and pollinators is a priority for you too. Calocephalus Brownii Cushion Bush Calocephalus Brownii Silver Cushion Bush Calocephalus Brownii Silver Cushion Bush. With fine needle like, hairy silver foliage, how perfect does this specimen look above in a garden here in Naracoorte. It contrasts and beautifully compliments the gnarly old tree limb it's nestled beside as though it's just meant to be there. The owner has many of them growing throughout her primarily native garden with them thriving in a full sun aspect, in a free draining pure sand soil. Drought-tolerant once established; particularly with an insulating layer of mulch as she has, the bare minimum of water is all that is required. Commonly used in gardens and landscapes for its attractive foliage, they tend to reach somewhere between 30 and 90cm in height and width. They truly look striking as a stand-alone feature in a garden as this one does, but they would look equally as amazing to see a hedge created with them or even in a large rustic urn. Rhagodia Parabolica Salt Bush Rhagodia parabolica  Salt bush 'Grey Edge' Rhagodia parabolica Salt bush 'Grey Edge'. Any list of grey foliage plants just wouldn't be complete without a salt bush. It doesn't get any hardier. This particular plant just happens to be growing no more than three meters away from the Cushion Bush pictured above, evidently, its growing preferences are the same. They are thriving!! Grey Edge grows to a height of 1 to 2 meters, is drought-tolerant once established; and only requires the occasional watering during prolonged dry spells. Prefers full sun, well-drained sandy or loamy soils; and is tolerative of alkaline saline soils too. Ideal for soil stabilization in coastal or erosion-prone areas. Popular in landscaping for its appealing foliage and form. Lavendula Angustifolia Eng. Lavender Fields of English Lavender Lavendula angustifolia English Lavender . There are so many cultivars of English Lavender available, including 'Munstead', 'Hidcote', and 'Royal Purple', each with unique characteristics. Typically grows between 1 to 3 feet tall, depending on the variety. Produces spikes of small purple flowers that bloom in summer, attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies. It features narrow, grey-green leaves that are aromatic when crushed, and thrives in full sun, free draining, sandy or even gravelly soils. Lavender might not be exactly a 'silver/grey' foliage plant but I'm still adding it to my list of favourites as it's right up there amongst them for every other reason and some. Even if grey plants aren't your thing from a colour palate perspective, don't dismiss them until you've done some research. Tough, drought hardy plants like these are already well adapted and suited to our climate. Their lower water requirements will not only save you hip pocket but help take the pressure off of our environment and precious resources too. Keep cool and have a wonderful weekend! Happy Gardening! 😘🪴 Other related posts you may like How to save water in the garden Watering lawns  There are lots of simple measures we can take to save water in our gardens potentially saving us hundreds of dollars a year. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/how-to-save-water-in-the-garden Help! My plants are burnt and crispy Burnt foliage burnt foliage is just one of those unfortunate things that happens from time to time. Try a few of these tips, hopefully they'll help. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/saving-burnt-crispy-plants Hard water-The cold, hard facts. Hard water If you see crusting on top of your soil surrounding your plants or a white residue on the leaves then they proceed to yellow and burn, there's a pretty good chance hard water will be a major contributing factor. So what can we do? https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/hard-water-the-cold-hard-facts https://amzn.asia/d/0ECXcz6

Delicate shade loving plants Watch any gardening shows on tv, and you’ll often hear them use the term ‘Microclimate’ but what IS a microclimate?? The term microclimate refers to a small area where the climate conditions differ from the surrounding area. Sunlight exposure, wind patterns, soil types, or proximity to structures are all contributing factors. Let me give you an example…. A large, advanced Morten Bay Fig tree growing in a full sun location exposed to prevailing winds… that’s the growing conditions it’s subject to, and the climate it’s growing within. Now if a collection of Hellebores' and Hosta's were growing at the base of that tree in rich, organic composted soil, protected from the winds by the large exposed roots, and fully shaded and sheltered by the huge canopy of dense foliage, they would be growing within their own climate, full shade and sheltered, and potentially a couple of degrees cooler too as the intensity of the suns heat would be less harsh beneath the dense thick canopy. One small, contained climate co-existing within another larger completely different climate, a micro-climate. **Benefits of growing plants within a micro-climate: ** 1. **Extended Growing Season: **If you're lucky enough to own a 'hot-house/ green-house', you can grow vegetables that might otherwise be out of season, almost all year round. Plants that require warmer temperatures often begin start to struggle once the days become cooler and shorter. A green-house acts as a microclimate trapping heat from the days sun within and insulating them from the cold allowing them to grow well beyond their typical season. This is how large commercial plant suppliers grow stock to provide to the retail outlets. Tomatoes growing within a green house. 2. **Protection from Harsh Conditions: ** Plants that are sensitive to strong winds or frost can be sheltered in a microclimate, providing them with a more suitable environment to grow. Think of the hellebores' example I just described above. You couldn’t grow the delicate little babies tears ground cover out in dry sandy soil in the hot sun, but if you planted a large shade tree, improved the soil beneath it, and grew some lovely dense perennials, there’s a good chance the babies tears might grow protected there in beneath the perennials. 3. **Diverse Plant Selection: ** By creating different microclimates within your garden, you can experiment in growing a wider variety of plants that may not be able to survive in the overall climate of your region. 4. **Optimal Growing Conditions: ** Microclimates can offer ideal conditions for specific plants, such as increased humidity, reduced sunlight exposure, or better drainage, leading to healthier growth. The little ferns growing within the terrarium below are growing within their own microclimate. They wouldn't be exposed the fluctuations in temperature within the house, cold draughts in the winter, or warm dry air from the fire. The moisture, humidity and temperature would be maintained and consistent. The perfect example of a microclimate. Tiny ferns within a terrarium, a micro-climate. A dear friend of mine has a beautiful new home built less than 10 years ago on their farm. When the house was first built quite literally in the middle of a paddock, there was not so much as a tree or twig. There was no protection from the constant prevailing winds and her soil was ( and still is) a heavy sticky black clay that becomes sodden in winter with the shallow water table and shrinks and cracks in summer leaving her with canyons a small dog could get lost down. The first thing she did was to establish a good, dense shelter belt of now large, advanced trees to completely surround the house. Fast forward to now, the mature trees provide almost total protection from the winds, the under-plantings of annuals and perennials have shade from the harsh summer sun, and many a season of top dressing her garden beds with generous layers of pea straw and rich organic matter has seen her have good, deep beds of nutrient rich top soil to plant into. She's essentially created a completely different climate within her yard to that of outside her yard, a microclimate. Michelle’s Garden A small section of her lovely garden that was once an empty barren paddock. Delicate plants growing in the under canopy. Next time you fall in-love with a plant but think you can’t have it because you can’t provide it with the growing conditions it needs, try to come up with a solution to get around those constraints. When it comes to gardening, anything is possible, sometimes we just need to think outside of the square. Happy Gardening 😘🪴

Written and edited by Tammy 24th August 2024 “Is it too soon to fertilise yet?" If you’re hesitating and unsure, the answer is no… not at all!! You only need look around us, deciduous ornamentals are breathtaking in full bloom everywhere throughout our town right now, the days are getting longer, and Spring is literally just around the corner. With everything beginning to wake from dormancy, now is the most important time of the year to start fertilising. Plants need a consistent source of nutrients to support their growth and well-being. A lot of plants will have struggled through the cold of winter and possibly been dealt the blows of sub-zero temperatures from frosts. It can be a struggle for them to get going again, particularly if the necessary resources are lacking. Which fertiliser you choose to use is going to depend largely on your circumstances, what you need to feed, and of course your personal preference for the brands you’re familiar and comfortable with. How I Like to Fertilise Liquids Soluble and liquid fertilisers and ameliorates are fantastic as that they're easily absorbed by the roots for the plant to begin reeking the benefits straight away. Without a doubt my hands down favourite is Seasol and I've been using it for years. The Seasol Complete Garden Health Treatment boosts plants immune systems and stimulates their roots to grow, while PowerFeed provides a source of nutrition. Approximately every two weeks from now on, throughout the growing season I like to apply a combined mix of Seasol Complete Health Treatment , and Seasol PowerFeed to any vegetable seedlings, flowering annuals, and cropping plants, including my fruit tree collection that are all in large pots/ wine barrels. It's fantastic for all perennials, shrubs, and bushes throughout your garden beds, and rest assured—it's totally safe for native plants as well. Remember, with solubles and liquids they don't persist in the soil for long, so you'll need to keep it up regularly if you're not providing your plants with something else in addition. Images credit to Seasol.com.au Organic Pelletised Fertilisers Diversity is the key; alongside liquid fertilisers that have the advantage of instant availability, it's smart to be in the habit of using a two-handed approach and apply an additional fertiliser, something to feed gradually and continually. My go-to is Neutrog. If you're not already familiar with Neutrog they are one of our few proudly SA home-grown companies, renowned worldwide now for their extensive range of organic fertilisers and soil ameliorants. (Look no further than the famous Flemington Race Course, home of the Melbourne Cup where the roses say it all!) Sudden impact for Roses. Meet Neutrogs' Rapid Raiser. A premium organic pelletised fertiliser that gradually nourishes your plants as it breaks down, while enriching your soil and its microbials at the same time. I like to top dress around my plants with it now, and then again in about another 6 weeks-time. You can safely apply it a couple of times per growing season, just follow the directions for rates for application on the back of the bag. Image credit to Neutrog It's all in the Mulch Before the hot weather kicks in, I can't stress enough that it's a must to mulch around your plants. Mulching not only insulates your plants and soil preventing dehydration, but it goes on to feed and nourish your soil too as it breaks down. Let me tell you about 'Who Flung Dung'. I'm Probably beginning to sound a little biased now, but once you begin using the Neutrog products, you'll understand why. Released into the market almost 5 years ago now in 2019, Who flung dung is an organic mulch and fertiliser two in one that comprises composted chicken manure and straw. Being high in Nitrogen, it's ideal for hungry fruiting, flowering and cropping plants. Spread a generous layer around your plants to insulate them from temperature extremes and prevent moisture loss, and at the same time it'll gradually feed them all the goodies they need to keep powering on. Image credit to Neutrog Little hint** REMEMBER, most Australian natives don't tolerate Phosphorus very well at all, so be mindful what fertilisers you use on them. Look for something that's specifically for natives. Neutrog does their own pelletised native plant food called Bush Tucker , which is recommended by the Australian Plant Society of Victoria, and often heard, highly spoken of by Gardening Australia's Angus Stewart. Bush Tucker is an organic based pelletised plant food that will break down and feed your plants gradually while benefiting your soil at the same time. If you've had any doubts, I hope this helps to put your mind at ease. It's absolutely essential to start feeding your gardens now as we head into Spring. Giving them the vital nutrients they need now from the right combination of fertilisers will boost their immune system and kick start their metabolism, setting the stage for strong plant growth right throughout the season resulting in stunning blooms, and bountiful harvests. You're always welcome to message me if you'd like more advice. Have a wonderful weekend, Happy gardening! 😘🌳🌹

Written and updated by Tammy 15th December 2024 Now more than ever with the costs of living making things a struggle for families, we're all looking for ways to consciously save money any way we can in and around our homes. Our gardens aren't the exception. There are lots of simple measures we can take to save water in our gardens potentially saving us hundreds of dollars a year. Tap timers. Replace the batteries in your tap timers at the beginning of each season and run them to ensure they're functioning correctly. Check for leaking taps and if need be, replace the washers and seals. Run a diagnostics check of your irrigation system strategically section by section assessing for leaks and blockages. Repair any leaking sections and plug any holes. Replace blocked drippers or jets. Make sure you're using the most efficient and appropriate jets or drippers for each section of the garden. Some parts may need 4 litre/hr drippers where other sections might be fine with 2 litre/hr ones. Mulch. I've said it before and I'll say it again, not only does mulching your gardens insulate plants from the radiant heat, but it aids water retention and prevents dehydration. Mulch also serves to nourish and feed your soil as it breaks down. Make adding a generous layer of quality mulch part of your regular seasonal garden maintenance and you'll potentially cut your watering expenses in half. Avoid watering in the hottest part of the day. You're far better off to water early in the morning, giving water the opportunity to soak in and avoid evaporating too quickly. Watering earlier also eliminates the opportunity for fungal issues and disease to arise as a result of excessive moisture overnight. When big rain is forecast, particularly summer storms, set out as many large catchment containers as you have, you’ll be amazed how much extra rainwater you can harvest from a single good downpour. It might just be enough to water all your potted plants for a week. Every drop counts. I have an old bathtub in my yard originally used as a raised garden bed that's no longer used and in need of recycling. In the meantime, every time there's a storm and heavy rains it completely fills giving m enough water to water all my potted plants. I feel like the cat that's got the cream!! 😁 Purchasing and setting up extra rainwater tanks isn’t cheap and isn’t always an option for all so be opportunistic. If you see secondhand shuttles/IBCs for sale and you have a spair bit of space at the back of the garden grab one and set it up. Create a catchment means on top to funnel the rain into it and a tap and the base and straight away, there’s an extra 1,000L of rainwater. Set up wicking beds for your edibles and veggie gardens where possible. They’re a far more efficient, and less wasteful means of hydrating your plants. Check out this link below to a short video where Sophie Thompson of the ABCs Gardening Australia demonstrates setting a wicking bed up using an IBC. It’s very clever! https://youtu.be/obNWr8MD0uU?si=L3kyMReen6Lp6-eZ Implementing as many of these measures as possible should see you saving a lot of money over time. Monitor your quarterly water bills too for exceptionally large spikes in usage and cost. An excessive bill in itself might be enough of a warning that there's a leak or an issue somewhere that needs to be addressed. Keep cool this summer and keep yourself hydrated too. Happy gardening😘🌸🌼💦

Written and updated by Tammy 8th December 2024 With only a few weeks to go till Christmas there's still time to find that last minute gift for your gardening enthusiast loved ones. I've done some brainstorming and come up with a few ideas for you. Gardening Gift Ideas The Diggers Club Books I ndoor plants Dwarf Citrus or other fruit trees Living Christmas tree Garden art Bird Feeder or Insect Hotel Hampers & Gift Baskets The Diggers Club Nan and Pop would love a few packets of Diggers heirloom veggie seeds, a pair of gloves and an annual subscription for the Diggers Club Magazine. The Diggers Club - Australia's No.1 Gardening Club Follow the link to the Diggers Club website to see their full range of heirloom seeds and gardening inspired gift ideas. Gift vouchers can also be purchased online, and if you're planning a trip to Adelaide SA, you'll find their shop within the Botanical Gardens on North Terrace. There in itself is another gift idea, the gift of an experience, a picnic lunch and day out exploring the Botanical gardens. Books Give the gift of books. There are so many fantastic books on gardening to choose from, but you won't get any better than 'From the ground up' by Sophie Thomson, SA presenter from the ABCs Gardening Australia . First published in 2010 the book is jam packed with everything you need to know about plants and gardening in South Australia. A wonderful resource that any gardener would be wrapped to have in their collection. Find your nearest Angus and Robertson bookstore or buy a copy online. Indoor plants Indoor plants are always in hot demand and have made a big come back in recent years. Most women will admit to having a modest collection and have at least a couple on a wish list that they're still dreaming of owning. Popular plants right now include Monstera Thai Constellation, Sansevieria snake plant, Anthurium, and Spathiphyllum Peace Lilly. Dwarf Citrus or other fruit trees What garden lover doesn't love being able to go pick their own fresh fruit from the tree. These days there's everywhere as many dwarf and miniature trees as there are regular full size growing varieties. Smaller varieties of fruit trees are perfectly suited to growing in pots making them ideal for small courtyards or elderly relatives who don't need a large volume of fruit, or are no longer able to maintain a large tree. Feel free to message me any questions, I myself have a good collection of fruit trees in pots😁🍋🪴 Living Christmas tree Blue star Christmas tree Picea pungens. No artificial tree can stand up to the beauty, fragrance and atmosphere of having a REAL tree in your home for Christmas. My little tree pictured here below. Outside 48 weeks of the year, and inside for 4. A lovely gift idea for a young family to be able to watch it grow over the years as the family grows. Once again more that suitable to keep in a large pot as they are slow to mature. (Check out my article on growing you own Christmas tree😁👇) https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/grow-your-own-christmas-tree Garden art Bird baths, fountains, urns, water features, statues or a park bench for that tranquil corner to sit back and reflect. A lovely piece of garden art or garden furniture is sometimes that last finishing touch for a corner of the garden that your loved one has been wishing for. There's so many to choose from and a price range to fit everyones budget. Bird Feeder or Insect Hotel Bird feeders and insect hotels. Gardening enthusiasts are always thinking of not only their plants, but the wellbeing of the native wildlife and friendly pollinators too. Try your local pet stores and gardening supply stockists or have a go at making something as simple as these pictured below. Some of the loveliest gifts are the ones made from the heart, it's not about the stress of running around spending the most amount of money, it's the thought and love that's gone into it that makes it so special. You can find loads of tutorials and step by step guides online for making your own too. Hampers & Gift Baskets Put together a lovely hamper full of gardening inspired goodies. Add things like Packets of seeds. Hand trowel and fork. Gloves. Kneeling pad or gel knee pads. BHG or Gardening Australia magazine. Insect repellent. Fly veil to attach to a hat. Moisture meter reader. Twine or Jolly tie. Secateurs. Plant labels spikes. Decorative water mister/spray bottle. A voucher offering your time and help for a day in the garden with your loved one! Whether you feel inspired and creative, and decide to make a gift yourself, or you're still looking forward to that planned day out shopping around. I hope I've inspired you a little and given you a few more ideas. Happy Gardening!😘🌸   Other related posts you may like  The Perfect Christmas Garden Made Simple Make your garden the perfect place to celebrate Christmas and make memories with your family. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/christmas-colour-in-the-garden  Grow your own Christmas tree Everything you need to know about growing your very ow Christmas tree. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/grow-your-own-christmas-tree

Written and edited by Tammy 8th December 2024 With less than 3 weeks to go till Christmas the race is on to have our menus planned, presents wrapped and stacked and have our gardens looking amazing ready for the arrival of family and friends! Creating a festive vibe in your garden doesn't have to be hard or stressful. It can be as simple as planting some annual colour, hanging some lovely lighting for theatrics and creating a comfy corner to gather. Here’s just a few ideas to get you inspired. Christmas Garden Must Haves Annuals Poinsettias Hydrangeas Bromeliads Herbs Comfortable Spaces to Gather Make magic with lights Annuals When considering colour, it's often the first aspect that catches the eye. For instant impact and wow factor summertime annuals are a fail-safe choice. Among the favourites are Petunias, Vincas, Impatiens, Chrysanthemums and Marigolds, Snapdragons, Portulacas, and Salvias, just to name a few. Most annuals prefer a full sun to part shade location in a rich, organic, moist but free draining soil for their full flowering potential. Feed them Seasol PowerFeed weekly to fortnightly, along side a handful of quality organic fertiliser such as Neutrog Rapid Raiser. Remember to regularly deadhead them to encourage more blooms and prevent them becoming leggy.  Try for mass plantings of one or two colours in a couple of varieties, or pops of colour arranged and cascading out of pots and containers. The ideas are endless. Poinsettias If you prefer something a little more 'traditionally Christmas' originating from Mexico is the Poinsettia Euphorbia pulcherrima . Poinsettias always put in an appearance at the beginning of the festive season, it just wouldn't be Christmas without seeing them somewhere. Vibrant reds, dusky pinks, greens and whites. Smaller dwarf varieties grow between 25-50cm tall while others planted out in the ground can potentially reach in excess of 3 meters tall. When pruning and dead heading, be mindful not to get the milky white sap on you, it's toxicity can cause rashes and allergic reactions in some people. Growing requirements  Poinsettias need a bright light but protection from the hot afternoon sun. Rich, organic, free draining soil, or quality premium potting mix for pots or containers. Water regularly to maintain moisture. Too wet will cause root rot, while drying out too much will result in wilt and foliage drop. Give regular applications of soluble fertiliser alongside a controlled slow release. Hydrangeas Hydrangeas are stunning coming into their own right now. Deciduous, they begin flowering in November and continue right through to February. Their massive blooms in cool shades of snowy whites, dreamy pinks, blues and violets scream out femininity and contrast beautifully against their large, lush leafy green foliage. Perfect as show pieces in pots, or in those dappled shaded spots at the back of the garden bed to entice you in further. Growing requirements  Hydrangeas thrive in cooler climates. They prefer a rich fertile moist but free draining soil. An ideal plant for a shaded, sheltered spot such as under a tree where they'll receive dappled shade and protection from the hotter afternoon sun. They benefit from regular applications of soluble fertiliser alongside a controlled slow release tailored to acid loving plants. Mulch generously beneath them with composted animal manure and straw to add nutrition, insulation from the heat and aid water retention. Bromeliads Unique, and a tad exotic, Bromeliads bring a touch of flair to Christmas time with their vibrant bold colours and unusual shaped flowers. Grow them in pots, a shaded spot in the garden, or give them as a living gift. Bromeliads are epiphytic, in their natural habitat, co-dependent on other plants for support, they derive their nutrients and water from the air and rain. Think of staghorns, elkhorns, mosses and orchids. Growing requirements Suitable for indoors and outdoors, but keep in mind they are frost and cold sensitive so if growing outdoors, plant them in a protected spot or be prepared to move or cover them if need be. Water requirements, bromeliads have what is known as a 'vase' or 'vessel', where the foliage whorls around the flower in the centre creating like a tunnel. Keep water in the vessel and keep the soil damp but not wet. If growing in pots use an orchid mix as its course and free draining. If growing outdoors in the garden, give them a dappled shaded spot in a rich organic but free draining soil. Herbs Pot up some beautiful fresh seasonal herbs. Sweet basil, mint, parsley, rosemary, thyme, and sage. You don’t have to plant them in a garden bed, plant them into a lovely pot or large container right near the back door close handy for picking to add to your salads or mojitos. A collection of fresh herbs by the back door will look homely and appealing, smell divine and be one less thing to add to the supermarket shopping list, a win win win without a doubt! Comfortable Spaces to Gather While we all want our garden to be visually stunning and welcoming, it also needs to be user friendly and serviceable. You’re also going to want to have an inviting, comfy corner set up ready for outdoor entertaining. After all, it’ll be too nice to be sitting indoors or at some point it’ll be nice to adjourn outside. Fire pit adds warmth and charm to your garden. Place some seating around it and add cozy blankets and cushions for comfort. Gathering around the fire sharing stories with loved ones is where the best lasting memories are created. Make magic with lights Let’s face it, Christmas just wouldn’t be Christmas without the twinkling of lights. it’s where that magic feel begins. Be as simplistic or as flamboyant as you like. A single flood light shining up into the canopy of a large tree at the back of the garden, a garland of festoon lights around the patio, or thousands of twinkling fairy lights adorning every corner of the garden, there’s no right or wrong. Don't be afraid to get a little creative, if you have a Callistemon looking stunning right now, weave fairy lights throughout its branches and make it the star of your show. Whatever it is you decide to do in your garden this season for 'Christmas cheer' just be sure you enjoy doing it, after all that's what Christmas is all about, and that's what gardening is all about too! Happy gardening! 😘🎄🍒 Other related posts you may like Grow your own Christmas tree Everything you need to know about growing your very ow Christmas tree. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/grow-your-own-christmas-tree Gardening Inspired gift ideas Stuck for last minute gift ideas for the gardening enthusiast loved one? Look no further! https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/gardening-inspired-gift-ideas

Written and updated by Tammy 8th November 2024 As kids growing up the excitement of Christmas always became real when we were packed up into the family station wagon and taken for a Sunday drive out around the back roads looking for that perfect Christmas tree to lay claim to. A quick look around to make sure the coast was clear, then a lower branch was chopped off and away we went loaded up with our tree engulfing every corner of the car. The smell of fresh pine needles would fill the house and even today, the fragrance of pine trees brings back memories of Christmas. When you walk into stores Christmas trees line the shelves in every shape and colour, from small fibre optics to tall imitation Fir trees, almost as convincing as the real thing. But what if I told you for not a lot of effort or dollars, you could have a real Christmas tree of your own? Complete with that fragrance of pines. The tree in the image above is my tree, a Picea pungans 'Blue Star' that I bought as a tiny little thing, barely a foot tall for $12.95 about 7 years ago. Every Spring sees it put out a burst of fresh new foliage just in time to come inside for a few weeks to be adorned with tinsel and ornaments. Native to North America, and commonly known as a Colorado Spruce they're a relatively slow growing conifer reaching heights of no more that 1.5 - 2 meters in 10 years (as evident by my own tree which probably around 1.5m tall now). In there native habitat, they can potentially grow in excess of 25m tall, rest assured that potential is limited in a controlled environment such as a pot. Picea's are hardy and adaptable trees, preferring a full sun to part shade location. Provide them with a good quality, rich, free draining soil or potting medium that's neutral to acidic in pH. They're don't seem to be troubled too much by pests or diseases either. It's the only plant in my yard I don't seem to need to tend to very often. When bringing them inside for a few weeks over Christmas, make sure you've given them a good drink prior. Provide a nice bright location inside your house and be mindful not to overload your branches to avoid breaking or damaging them. When transitioning your tree back outside after Christmas, do it gradually over a few days so you don't shock the plant. Move it back outdoors into a shaded spot, then move to part shade then gradually move it back to it's original location. Like any plants, there are so many different varieties to choose from. If the blue star is not your thing, go for the picea glauca which is a lovely emerald, green conifer. You can make a Christmas tree of whatever plant you like really, let your creativity run wild! Most garden centres and plant nurseries will be selling picea's for Christmas trees in the coming weeks if not already. My kids laugh at my sentimental funny ways, but I personally think a real, live tree is so much nicer than a plastic one, and who knows, maybe my little tree will still be around long after me, and my children's children can bring it in each year and be proud to say this was our great grandma's tree ❤️🎄 Happy gardening😘🌸 Other related posts you may enjoy Gardening Inspired gift ideas Stuck for last minute gift ideas for the gardening enthusiast loved one? Look no further! https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/gardening-inspired-gift-ideas  The Perfect Christmas Garden Made Simple Make your garden the perfect place to celebrate Christmas and make memories with your family. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/christmas-colour-in-the-garden

Written and edited by Tammy 14th November 2024 Tomato growing season is well underway, and if you haven’t already got some in, there’s no better time to do so than now. Originating from South America, a Mediterranean climate, tomatoes need warmth, sun, and a whole lot of nutrition to go from a little seedling to a mature plant baring masses of juicy tasty fruit within only a few months. Whether you're a 'newbie' to the world of growing tomatoes, or a seasoned pro, here are a few of my favourite tips. Variety Bush or Vine varieties Location Trellising and support Nutrition-what to feed your tomatoes Hydration-how much water do the actually need? Pests and diseases-what to look out for and how to treat Selecting the right Tomatoes for you What type of tomatoes would you like to grow? Small mouthful sized tomatoes such as 'Sweet Bite' or Tommie Toe' pop in your mouth, they're perfect for salads or the kiddies' lunchboxes. Larger hearty 'Beef Steak' type varieties are for the lovers of fresh tomatoes, seasoned with salt and pepper on a piece of toast. If making sauce and relish is your thing, you'll want to go with the tried and tested 'Roma' or 'Saucy Tom', and for those with dietary restrictions or an intolerance to anything acidic, stick with the likes of 'Black Russian' or 'Mellow Yellow'. Of course, if preservation of the old-fashioned heirloom varieties is important to you, keep an eye out for Tigerella, Lemon drop, Amish Paste and Principe Borghese, just to name a few. The flavours are amazing and second to none. Indeterminate/determinate Fancy terminology, but what does it mean? Also known as "Bush" tomatoes, determinate varieties remain smaller, (aprox 3-4 foot tall) bushier, and more compact. They tend to reach maturity quicker and most of their crop will ripen around the same time making these the most suitable for making sauces and preserves. In comparison, indeterminate varieties, also known as "Vining ", keep growing and producing fruit right throughout the season often well into Autumn. Because of their vine like, rambling growth habit, they can easily reach well in excess of 2 meters tall, so they do require staking or trellising. What you want to do with your tomatoes, be in pick them all quickly to make sauces and condiments or pick one or two at a time for your salads over an extended period, really will be what determines what variety you decide to grow. Location Whether you plan to grow them in pots, raised beds or out into the garden bed, tomatoes love the sun! Give them a spot on the Northern side of your house or a spot where they're going to get 6-8 hours of sun per day. Avoid planting in the same soil or location you had tomatoes, chillies or capsicums last season, the main risk being that you'll expose them to built-up soil borne diseases minimising the potential for healthy plants and good yields. Try a seasonal rotation of legumes then your tomatoes, as the legumes 'fix' nitrogen back into the soil that the tomatoes will be grateful for. Give each plant plenty of room to grow, don't plant them too close or overcrowd them, a lack of space, light and air circulation will give rise for the opportunity for fungal issues and disease to take hold. Trellising and support Pinch off the first 1 to 2 pairs of lower leaves and plant the seedling to that depth. Planting that extra couple of inches deeper into the ground allows extra roots to grow along the stem that's below the soil giving the plant a larger, stronger, more supportive root system. Give them a stake, trellis or framework to support them as they grow so they don't break, bend or snap under the weight of the fruit. Conical plant trainers are normally available in most garden centres now to coincide with 'tomato season', but you can also fashion your own using stakes and jolly tie, mesh or really you could utilise any resources you have available. Let your imagination run wild! Check out my short video here below, made last season, I demonstrated the ideal way to plant a tomato. 👇👀 Nutrition I mentioned earlier that tomatoes are hungry plants, and that they are! They require a lot of energy to go from a little seedling to a mature plant producing fruit within 3 months. Add generous amounts of organic matter to the soil at the time of planting along with some slow-release fertiliser specifically for tomatoes. Applying liquid soluble fertilisers such a Seasol PowerFeed at weekly to fortnightly intervals provides a source of nutrition that can be utilised instantly by the plant. Using a multi-pronged approach of liquids, organic pelletised fertilisers, and slow release ensures there's a constant supply of nutrition available for steady continual growth all season long. Hydration It's crucial to keep your watering rescheme regular. Inconsistent watering will do more harm than good with. Going from dehydrated to waterlogged and back and forth will cause disorders such as skin splitting and blossom end rot. Always water in the morning in the cool of the day so your plants have the opportunity to dry before evening. There's a far greater chance for fungal issues to take hold when plants are left damp or wet in the cool of the night. Don't forget to mulch around your plants as well. Mulching not only insulate them, but it helps preserve ground moisture preventing dehydration. Pests and diseases 'Vigilance is a virtue' be on the lookout for signs of pests and fungal diseases. A rain event bringing on damp, humid conditions will often see slugs and snails crawling around. Keep some snail bait in your toolkit, alternatively don't be afraid to go for a twilight stroll around the veggie patch. Most 'critters' are nocturnal coming out to feast under the cover of darkness. You'll be amazed how quick you'll fill a 4L ice-cream with snails , and your chooks will be even more delighted. Most fungal issues such as rust and powdery mildew thrive as soon as there's lack of air circulation, dampness and humidity. Allow for plenty of air circulation between your plants by giving each one plenty of its own space. Pinch off any old, yellowing or diseased looking lower foliage, it's not doing the plant any favours. Have a fungicide spray in your tool kit ready to go should you need it. Look for a product like Eco-fungicide. Gentle and environmentally friendly, the active ingredient is basically bicarb-soda so it's safe, nothing nasty in that. Alternatively, utilising what you have there at home, combine 1 part cow's milk to 3 parts water in a spray bottle and liberally spray to cover the foliage that looks diseased with it. ** I've included a couple of pics here below to show you what disease looks like on the leaves, and up the stems of your plants. Try not to despair, I know it's frustrating and disheartening, but it has been a bad season for pests (particularly on fruit trees) and disease on veggie seedlings. Just be quick to treat straight away at the first signs and remove the diseased foliage. Keep an eye out on the next newly emerging flush of foliage to see that it looks healthy proving that the treatment has been successful. Give your plants a regular dose of Seasol Health treatment too, it will boost their immune system making them stronger and more resistant to disease. If you feed your plants regularly, keep the water up to them, and keep them free of any pests or fungal disease, there's no reason for you not to be harvesting bountiful crops of tomatoes over the summer months. There's nothing more rewarding than harvesting your own fresh produce and the flavours just don't compare to the ones you buy off the shelf in the supermarkets. If you haven't already, grab yourself some tomatoes and get planting! Happy gardening🍅😘🌸