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Written and edited by Tammy 7th September 2024 Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum would have to be one of my favourite plants I recommend time and time again, when asked for something pretty, but hardy and adaptable. Convolvulus Cneorum Convolvulaceae, commonly known as the 'Morning Glory' family of flowering plants, mostly comprises herbaceous climbing vines, but Cneorum is one of only a few that are a dense, bushy, spreading shrub. Native to the mediterranean regions, they prefer alkaline soil, a full sun to part shade aspect, and good drainage. They stand up well to the cold and are tolerative of hot, dry periods. Size wise, they form a nice, dense mound, of approximately 60cm tall and upto 120cm wide. Convolvulus Cneorum is well known is the landscaping world for being a winner of the Royal horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit for its outstanding qualities and landscape performance. To see it in full bloom covered in masses of beautiful, vibrant white flowers on soft silvery grey foliage, you can appreciate how versatile it really is, in that it will suit anything from cottage style gardens and rockeries to mass plantings for borders. Instead of annuals that need to be replaced each season, try planting some silver bush in pots or hanging baskets as a feature or mobile display that can be moved from one spot to the next for a pop of colour that will continue to bloom for months and months on end. Next time you're in Naracoorte, drive past the new Mitre 10, look for it growing beneath the ornamental flowering plums Prunus 'Crimson Spire' in the carpark garden beds. I planted them there almost 18 months ago when our store opened as small plants no larger than potted colour. (3 plants per 6 meters) You'll see they're well on the way to reaching their mature size now, and as I hoped, they contrast beautifully with the burgundy foliage of the flowering plums. Other than the initial watering them in, and a seasonal handful of Rapid Raiser, they're thriving of whatever Mother Nature provides them with. They've stood up to the 40 degree days we had at the end of last summer, and the frosts we had in the tail end of this winter. They really are a winner. The perfect plant ticking all the boxes for ease of care, hardiness and masses of colour. Add this one to your garden wish list today. Happy Gardening! 😘🪴 Other Posts You Might Enjoy When is the Best Time to Fertilise Your Garden and What Products Should You Use? “Is it too soon to fertilise yet?" If you’re hesitating and unsure, the answer is no… not at all! With everything beginning to wake from dormancy, now is the most important time of the year to start fertilising. Top 20 Best Fruit Trees Guide Whether you're beginning with a blank canvas for a new fruit orchard, or you've got space for one or two additional trees to complete your collection, deciding which ones to go with can be a little overwhelming. To solve that dilemma and make it easier for you I've compiled a list of what I consider to be the top 20 best fruit trees. Beginners guide to Pruning tools-which one to use! Pruning is one of those jobs that all gardeners need to do at some point whether you have a conservative little courtyard or a sprawling landscaped masterpiece. But where do you start? which tool is for what??" Let's go through a few and see if I can help solve some of the confusion. How Frost Affects Plants & Tips for Preventing Frostburn Frosts are among the greatest adversaries for gardeners throughout the colder months. Days with clear, sunny skies often lead to subzero temperatures overnight, causing frosts to occur. Without being pro-active and having measures in place, the results can be detrimental. Which fertiliser should I use?🤷‍♀️ One of the most important jobs at the top of everyone's 'to do list' right now is to feed your gardens. Whether it's your roses, lawns, garden beds, fruit trees or indoor plants, they're all going to need to be fed. It can be confusing trying to decide which fertiliser should I use with so many available on the market. There are five main types of fertilisers that each have their own purpose and circumstances for use.

written and edited by Tammy 1st September 2024 You’ve heard me say it before and I’ll say it again, “when life gives you lemons…. “well have you ever tried Marmalade? Citrus lovers will most likely have tried it and love it as I do but for those who don’t know, marmalade is the most divine, sweet, tangy preserve you could ever imagine spreading on a crunchy slice of hot toast or dolloped over icecream. History of Marmalade History of the Meyer Lemon Size and Growing Preferences Fruit Description Where you'll find them Meyer Marmalade Recipe History of Marmalade Marmalade recipes go back as far as the 1500s where the Portuguese used quinces (known as marmelo) to make their preserves, then as time passed Seville oranges took centre stage. Now the relevance marmalade has to my gardening blog has everything to do with my Meyer Lemon tree-well actually I have two! A beautiful specimen in my front garden and a dwarf Meyer branded “Lots a lemons” in a pot. Meyer is not the lemon you will find a wedge of wrapped in with your fish n chips but it is hands down the sweetest, juiciest lemon of them all, making it the most suitable variety for marmalade. (and I LOVE squeezing them over my fish n chips!) History of the Meyer Lemon A Hybrid, said to be a cross between a lemon and an orange that found its way to the US from Beijing China back in 1908 thanks to a US Dept of Agriculture plant explorer, Frank Meyer. ( Improved Meyer lemon | Givaudan Citrus Variety Collection at UCR ) Size & Growing Preferences A smaller more compact tree than other varieties, it potentially reaches 2.5m x 2.5m and thrives in full sun. Prefers a quality, free draining, loamy soil, slightly on the acidic side. As with most varieties of citrus they are gross feeders. I regularly provide mine with a combination of fertilisers , liquids, organics, and animal manures in mulch form. Known for being hardier and more adaptable that other varieties of lemon, it’s a popular, good choice for the home garden. Fruit Description The fruit itself is small to medium, rounded in size with a smooth orangey yellow thin skin covering a golden yellow juicy flesh. Where you'll find them The smooth thinner skin of the Meyer leaves them more susceptible to damage and bruising in transit hence they’ve never had the mass market appeal of say the Lisbon or Eureka, so you won’t find the Meyer on supermarket shelves. Where you WILL find them though with the prolific volume of fruit they produce almost all year round, is at your local home growers markets, buy swap sell pages and home doorsteps with signs saying “Free lemons, take some”. It honestly doesn’t get any better than that, the winner for me is the Meyer. Attached is the link to the recipe I used. Meyer Lemon Marmalade https://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/meyer_lemon_marmalade/ The most time consuming part was chopping and preparing the lemons but other than that it was very easy and SO worth the effort! Enjoy the first day of Spring! Happy Gardening😘🍋

Written and edited by Tammy 24th August 2024 “Is it too soon to fertilise yet?" If you’re hesitating and unsure, the answer is no… not at all!! You only need look around us, deciduous ornamentals are breathtaking in full bloom everywhere throughout our town right now, the days are getting longer, and Spring is literally just around the corner. With everything beginning to wake from dormancy, now is the most important time of the year to start fertilising. Plants need a consistent source of nutrients to support their growth and well-being. A lot of plants will have struggled through the cold of winter and possibly been dealt the blows of sub-zero temperatures from frosts. It can be a struggle for them to get going again, particularly if the necessary resources are lacking. Which fertiliser you choose to use is going to depend largely on your circumstances, what you need to feed, and of course your personal preference for the brands you’re familiar and comfortable with. How I Like to Fertilise Liquids Soluble and liquid fertilisers and ameliorates are fantastic as that they're easily absorbed by the roots for the plant to begin reeking the benefits straight away. Without a doubt my hands down favourite is Seasol and I've been using it for years. The Seasol Complete Garden Health Treatment boosts plants immune systems and stimulates their roots to grow, while PowerFeed provides a source of nutrition. Approximately every two weeks from now on, throughout the growing season I like to apply a combined mix of Seasol Complete Health Treatment , and Seasol PowerFeed to any vegetable seedlings, flowering annuals, and cropping plants, including my fruit tree collection that are all in large pots/ wine barrels. It's fantastic for all perennials, shrubs, and bushes throughout your garden beds, and rest assured—it's totally safe for native plants as well. Remember, with solubles and liquids they don't persist in the soil for long, so you'll need to keep it up regularly if you're not providing your plants with something else in addition. Images credit to Seasol.com.au Organic Pelletised Fertilisers Diversity is the key; alongside liquid fertilisers that have the advantage of instant availability, it's smart to be in the habit of using a two-handed approach and apply an additional fertiliser, something to feed gradually and continually. My go-to is Neutrog. If you're not already familiar with Neutrog they are one of our few proudly SA home-grown companies, renowned worldwide now for their extensive range of organic fertilisers and soil ameliorants. (Look no further than the famous Flemington Race Course, home of the Melbourne Cup where the roses say it all!) Sudden impact for Roses. Meet Neutrogs' Rapid Raiser. A premium organic pelletised fertiliser that gradually nourishes your plants as it breaks down, while enriching your soil and its microbials at the same time. I like to top dress around my plants with it now, and then again in about another 6 weeks-time. You can safely apply it a couple of times per growing season, just follow the directions for rates for application on the back of the bag. Image credit to Neutrog It's all in the Mulch Before the hot weather kicks in, I can't stress enough that it's a must to mulch around your plants. Mulching not only insulates your plants and soil preventing dehydration, but it goes on to feed and nourish your soil too as it breaks down. Let me tell you about 'Who Flung Dung'. I'm Probably beginning to sound a little biased now, but once you begin using the Neutrog products, you'll understand why. Released into the market almost 5 years ago now in 2019, Who flung dung is an organic mulch and fertiliser two in one that comprises composted chicken manure and straw. Being high in Nitrogen, it's ideal for hungry fruiting, flowering and cropping plants. Spread a generous layer around your plants to insulate them from temperature extremes and prevent moisture loss, and at the same time it'll gradually feed them all the goodies they need to keep powering on. Image credit to Neutrog Little hint** REMEMBER, most Australian natives don't tolerate Phosphorus very well at all, so be mindful what fertilisers you use on them. Look for something that's specifically for natives. Neutrog does their own pelletised native plant food called Bush Tucker , which is recommended by the Australian Plant Society of Victoria, and often heard, highly spoken of by Gardening Australia's Angus Stewart. Bush Tucker is an organic based pelletised plant food that will break down and feed your plants gradually while benefiting your soil at the same time. If you've had any doubts, I hope this helps to put your mind at ease. It's absolutely essential to start feeding your gardens now as we head into Spring. Giving them the vital nutrients they need now from the right combination of fertilisers will boost their immune system and kick start their metabolism, setting the stage for strong plant growth right throughout the season resulting in stunning blooms, and bountiful harvests. You're always welcome to message me if you'd like more advice. Have a wonderful weekend, Happy gardening! 😘🌳🌹

Written and edited by Tammy 21st June 2023 With our daytime maximum temperatures here in the Limestone Coast not expected to get much over 10-11 degrees this week, we begin to feel uncomfortable, cold and sluggish. Our immune systems even slow down with the lack of vitamin D from the sun and we become at a higher risk of coughs, colds and bugs. What about our plants? Well, the evidence is there that they're not happy about it and don't cope well with it either. They slow right down with their growth and flowering, they can begin to look a little sickly and lacking in their lush green colour, and like us they become more susceptible to diseases and disorders. We begin taking extra multi vitamins and immune boosters to help boost ourselves and to prevent ourselves becoming unwell. It kind of makes sense and seems a logical thing to maybe consider doing the same thing for our plants too. This is the part where Seasol comes into it. Seasol Complete Garden Health Treatment is to a gardener what butter is to bread.... we go hand in hand. Every gardener owns a bottle or two. The active ingredients in Seasol are derived from seaweed making it a wonderful source of nutrition and trace elements. We garden gurus always recommend when you're transplanting anything to give it a soak first and water it in with Seasol. Not only does it help prevent and overcome transplant shock, but it helps to stimulate root growth and boost a plants immune system. Now perhaps even more so than ever as things start to struggle and look unwell in your garden, boost them up, give them a helping hand with some Seasol. It can be safely done every 2 to 4 weeks, all year round. Always apply any liquid applications to you plants early in the day so there's time for it to be absorbed and they aren't left wet into the evening hours increasing the opportunity for fungal issues or rot due to dampness to arise. A regular dose of Seasol when your plants are struggling might just be their saving Grace. As with any garden ameliorants, always read and carefully follow the instructions to apply them as per the rates on the labels. You'll find Seasol Complete Garden Treatment available online or in a major leading outlet near you. Rug up and keep warm over the next week with the extreme cold temperatures. Perhaps even throw some frost cloth or some form of protection over any little young vulnerable veggie seedlings too. And it you don't already own a bottle of Seasol, add one to your shopping list now and start boosting your gardens and plants to help see them through the cold. Happy Gardening😘❄️

Written and edited by Tammy 29th July 2024 Whether you're beginning with a blank canvas for a new fruit orchard, or you've got space for one or two additional trees to complete your collection, deciding which ones to go with can be a little overwhelming, given the varieties available, and new and improved cultivars constantly coming into the market each season. To solve that dilemma and make it easier for you I've compiled a list of what I consider to be the top 20 best fruit trees that I've sold, tasted, tended to and seen growing here in our region year after year. I've included a few details about each one, such as their characteristics, flavour, pollination requirements and ripening times. So, let's dive in! Top 20 best fruit trees Apple Jonathan Apple Granny Smith Apple royal Gala Apple Pink Lady Apricot Moorpark Apricot Divinity Cherry Stella Cherry Lapins Fig White Adriatic Fig Black Genoa Mulberry Dwarf Black Nectarine Goldmine Peach Elberta Peach Anzac Peacharine Pear Packham Pear Dutchess Pear Nashi Plum Satsuma Plum Santa Rosa Apple-Jonathan An oldie but a goodie, everyone's favourite, the Jonathan apple. A medium sized, round apple, predominantly red, over a yellow to green background. They're known for their crisp, juicy, sweet, flavour. A good choice for kid's lunchboxes. Pollination Requirements: Requires a companion for pollination. Most suitable: Red Delicious, Golden Delicious, Granny Smith. Maturity: Fruit ripens from early to mid-March. Apple-Granny Smith Australian bred and world renowned, the 'go to' apple for baking the humble apple pie. A large firm, crispy green apple, slightly tart in flavour. Granny Smiths are perfect for baking as they hold their shape well. Pollination Requirements: Partially self-fertile but benefits from cross-pollination with another apple variety like Red Delicious or Pink Lady. Universal pollinator for most other apple varieties. Maturity: Ripens over a long period from April through into May. * Granny Smiths are available as a dwarf, commonly known as 'Leprechaun'®️ Apple-Royal Gala Royal Galas' are another popular smaller to medium apple, perfect size for the kiddies. Crisp, juicy and sweet, they're stripey red over a creamy yellow background. Pollination Requirements: Partially self-fertile, they benefit from cross-pollination with a Granny Smith, Pink Lady or Red delicious. Also available as a dwarf reaching approximately 2.5m tall, branches may require staking while bearing the weight of fruit. Maturity: Ripens mid to late February, a good option for extending your harvest season, as it ripens earlier than Jonathan. Apple-Pink Lady Pink Lady's, a popular and well-known apple have been right up there amongst the top runners since their release in 1974. A blushing pinkish-red skin colour over a yellow background, they're a lovely, crisp and juicy apple with a sweet-tart flavour. A good choice if you're looking for an apple that keeps well. Equally as good for cooking as eating fresh. Pollination Requirements: They will benefit from a companion such as Gala, Granny Smith or Red Fuji. Maturity: Ripens from mid-April through into May. *A dwarf cultivar of Pink Lady is available, known as 'Pinkabelle'®️. ** Look out for: Red Delicious & Golden Delicious, both classic, well-known varieties having been around for a long time. Both available as dwarfs. Apricot-Moorpark For eating fresh, making jams and dehydrating it doesn't get any better that the classic old favourite Moorpark. When I say old, I mean literally as it's a cultivar that's been around since the 17th century. Moorpark apricots are best known for their rich, sweet flavour with a hint of tartness. Pollination Requirements: They are self-pollinating. Having another apricot tree nearby can increase fruit production, but it's not essential. Maturity: Moorpark apricots typically ripen from late December into January. They prefer a free draining soil and full sun aspect and are also available in a dwarf form. Apricot-Divinity If you're looking for a second variety of apricot to be a companion for your Moorpark, look no further than an Early Divinity. Early Divinity are a medium to large oblong shaped fruit, with the flavour being every bit as good as the Moorpark. Pollination Requirements: Early Divinity apricots are also self-pollinating, but again, having a different variety nearby can increase fruit production. Maturity: As the name suggests, Early Divinity ripens almost a month ahead of Moorpark making it a perfect choice for extending your harvest season. *A dwarf cultivar of Early Divinity is available and happens to be what I purchased myself last season. Cherry-Stella Imagine the pride and satisfaction in being able to pick your own Cherries at Christmas time and not having to pay the exorbitant prices of supermarkets. Well, a Stella cherry tree is what you need. Stellas are known for their sweet flavour and dark red to almost black skin. Needing aprox. 600 chill hours, followed by warm summers for fruit production, our regions climate provides cherries with everything they need to thrive. Pollination Requirements: Stella cherries are self-fertile, meaning they don't require a companion tree for pollination, though as previously mentioned, having a second is never a bad thing. Stellas are also a universal pollinator for most other varieties of cherries. Maturity: Stella cherries typically ripen from mid-December. **A Dwarf cultivar of Stella is also available. Cherry-Lapins Just as popular and well known here in our region, if you're considering a second cherry tree or an alternative to Stella, look for a Lapins. Deep red in colour once fully ripe, Lapins are equally as juicy and sweet with hint of tartness. Pollination Requirements: As with Stella, Lapins are self-pollinating, so planting two trees is not necessary, but always advantageous. Maturity: Lapins Cherries are ready to harvest from late December. *As with Stella, Lapins is available in dwarf form. Fig-White Adriatic My personal favourite, as mine never fails me season after season, the White Adriatic Fig. White Adriatics are distinguishable by their lime green to pale yellow skin when ripe, with soft pink to dark rose flesh inside. Renowned for their taste, they have the sweetest, honeylike, melt in your mouth flavour that makes them perfect for eating fresh, or cooking in deserts and preserves. They grow well here in our region (for anyone else reading this who's further afield, I'm in climate zone 6 a Temperate Mediterranean climate so we have warm dry summers, and our winters are cold and wet). Pollination Requirements: White Adriatics, like most figs are self-fertile so you won't need a second one. Maturity: My figs begin to ripen in the tail end of Summer, and I continue picking them right throughout the Autumn months. Fig-Black Genoa If the idea of a white fig isn't for you, an alternative commonly seen here in our region is the Black Genoa. Highly prized by fig enthusiasts for their sweet, rich flavour, Black Genoas are a smaller plump looking fig with a vibrant pink to deep red flesh hidden beneath a purple to black outer skin. Pollination Requirements: As with the White Adriatics, Black Genoas are self-fertile. Maturity: Harvest them from late Summer into Autumn. **Have you ever wanted to have a go at making your own home-made fig jam? Try this one... follow the link here to an EASY recipe 👉 Mulberry Dwarf Black Another favourite of mine that I've never regretted buying is the Dwarf Black Mulberry, you won't get a hardier little tree. If you don't have acres of room, or years to wait for the heritage Old English Black Mulberry to mature, then this one is for you. A prolific bearer of sweet, slightly tart, dark red to black berries. The perfect snack to have a handful of daily for weeks on end. The berries tend to be smaller, firmer and more 'squish resistant' than that of the Old English, that being said they will still make a mess of your hands, clothes and pavers in my case, as my tree in is a large container in my courtyard. Pollination Requirements: Dwarf Mulberries are self-fertile. Maturity: My tree bears fruits twice a year, the first main crop being in late September, and a second smaller crop in late March to April. Nectarine-Goldmine For Nectarines, the hands down favourite would be Goldmine. Creamy white flesh beneath a smooth, pinkish red skin. The rich, aromatic flavour sweetens and intensifies as they ripen and soften. They're 'freestone' meaning you should be able to run a knife around the circumference of the fruit at the dented midline and separate the two halves from the stone. Pollination Requirements: Self-pollinating, so you won't require a second one. Maturity: Goldmine nectarines ripen mid to late summer, around February. ** Dwarf cultivars are also available. Peach-Elberta A fruit orchard just wouldn't be complete without a Peach tree or two and the two most common popular peaches are Elberta and Anzac. Elberta has been a favourite for years. A classic sweet juicy freestone peach, with golden orange flesh beneath a soft, fuzzy, red flushed, yellow skin. A beautiful peach for eating fresh or culinary purposes. Pollination Requirements: Elberta is self-fertile and will produce fruit without a companion. Maturity: Harvest Elberta peaches from mid-February. ** Dwarf cultivar of Elberta is available. Peach-Anzac Over 100 years old and named in honour of the ANZAC soldiers, the Anzac Peach is well known and highly regarded as one of the best peaches today. A large, round, white fleshed, freestone variety with the sweetest flavour. Anzac having been around for such a long time has a naturally higher resistance to disease, in particular Curl Leaf. Pollination Requirements:  Anzac peaches are self-pollinating, but having another peach tree nearby can improve fruit production. Maturity:  Anzac peaches typically ripen in mid to late summer. *A dwarf cultivar of Anzac is available. **If you like the idea of an old-fashioned type of Peach where the sweet juice runs down your wrist with each mouthful and the flesh clings to the stone, keep an eye of for Golden Queen. Still the number 1 peach used for preserved tinned fruit today. Peacharine So you love peaches but find the furry skin off-putting or hate the idea of having the remove the fuzz which sometimes doesn't come off easily? Well perhaps a Peacharine is just the thing for you. A peacharine is basically a cross between a nectarine and a peach, or rather a peach without the fuzz. Firm, yellow flesh beneath dark pink blushed, smooth skin that becomes sweeter as it ripens. Freestone. Pollination Requirements: Self-fertile as with peaches and nectarines, doesn't require a pollinator. Maturity: Expect to be able to harvest then from early to mid-Summer. Pear-Packham Accounting for more than 60% of pears grown in Australia today, the Packham Triumph was bread by Horticulturist Charles Henry Packham in NSW in the late 1890s. Reliable, prolific fruiters, they're grow well here in our region. The fruit size is medium to large, oblong but chunky and irregular in shape. The flesh is smooth, and creamy white beneath lime green skin that yellows as it ripens. Eat them soft sweet and juicy, or whilst still firmer. I love to slice them aprox. 5mm thick and dry them in my dehydrator. Try to resist eating too many at once though!!! Pollination Requirements: Like most pears, Packhams are sterile and will need another pear of a different variety nearby for pollination. Maturity: Packhams ripen in late February. Pear-Dutchess A European variety, also known as Williams or Bartlett, Dutchess are the second most commonly grown Pear in our region. Slightly smaller and more uniform in their shape and appearance than the Packham, but they're every bit as sweet and juicy. They're the most popular canning variety of pear. Pollination Requirements: Dutchess pears are self-pollinating so perhaps a better choice if you only have room for one. That being said, fruit yields will be even better with a second variety nearby. Maturity: Ripening times for Dutchess Pears are from mid-February. ** Available as a dwarf cultivar. Pear-Nashi For something a bit different, you can't go past a Nashi. Originating in Eastern Asia Nashis' are next level! A cross between an apple and a pear, Nashis' have the firm, crisp crunch of an apple, with the texture and juiciness of a ripe pear. The flavour can best be described as florally sweet, with a hint citrus. Pollination Requirements: Nashi pears are self-fertile, but cross-pollination from a Dutchess or another Nashi will increase fruit production. Maturity: They typically ripen late Summer in February. Plum-Satsuma Everybody knows of the Satsuma. Satsumas are a medium to large freestone plum, with a small pit in the centre. Dark red flesh beneath, red to almost purple skin, they're best known for their sweet, juicy flavour and the prolific volume of fruit they produce each season. Pollination Requirements: Satsuma plums are self-pollinating, so they don't require a companion. Maturity: Satsuma plums typically ripen mid to late summer. **Satsuma plums are available as a dwarf cultivar as well. Plum-Santa Rosa Santa Rosa is another popular and well-known variety of plum for home gardens. A medium sized, round clingstone plum with a soft, sweet, juicy, yellow flesh beneath a deep red coloured skin. Pollination Requirements: Santa Rosa plums are semi self-pollinating but will yield better with another plum tree nearby. They're noted to be a good pollen donor for most other plums. Maturity: Santa Rosa's ripen December. ** Santa Rosa is available as a dwarf. Before you go shopping for your new fruit trees there'll be a few things to take into consideration. Maybe create yourself a list. What type of fruit do you like to eat? What do you find yourself regularly buying in the supermarkets? Pollination requirements. Some trees will require a companion for pollination. How much space do you have? How many trees at most can you fit comfortably within the space? What's your soil quality like? You may need to invest some time and money into improving you soil prior to planting. Irrigation. Hand watering or setting up drippers on timers for consistency and accuracy of water allocations. Protecting your fruit from wildlife. A netted fully enclosed orchard or netting the individual trees. These are the first few that come to my mind and there are quite likely other things that I haven't mentioned that will be a priority to you. Perhaps spend some time having a look at the Balhannah Nurseries , and Flemings Nurseries websites. The two biggest and longest standing growers and providers of trees to our region. Almost every single retail supplier you visit right now will have Balhannah and Flemings tree in stock. They are amazing companies that we would be lost without. Take advantage of the friendly staff instore where you buy your trees. Go armed with your list and ask questions. That's what we are there for, and more importantly, what we love to do. As always, you're more than welcome to send me a message if you want to know more. Have a wonderful week, Happy Gardening! 😘🍏🍎

Written and edited by Tammy 29th June 2024 By now, most fruit trees will have dropped their remaining leaves and transitioned into dormancy making it the perfect time to prune. Without foliage obstructing your view, you can clearly see the branches, buds, and overall shape of the tree, allowing for more precise and effective pruning. And not only that, but, pruning over the period of dormancy (while the tree is not actively growing) minimizes stress on the tree which reduces the risk of disease transmission. Importance of knowing what you're pruning Recognising and being able to identify your fruit buds can save you the costly mistake of unintentionally cutting off the chance for a bumper crop of fruit this Summer. Imagine your heartache. Peaches, Peacharines and Nectarines (Prunus Persica) Apricots. (Prunus Armeniaca) Pears (Pyrus Communis.) Fig (Ficus Carica.) Identifying fruit buds, How do I know what's what?🤷‍♀️ While I don't proclaim to be an expert or able to identify every single detail on all types of trees, I'm going to show you what I do recognise on my own trees and give you my tips for how you can become more confident in recognising what is what on your trees too. ( Click here to jump down to some labelled pics I've taken of my own trees). Probably sounds old fashioned but don't be afraid to grab a few books from the library and study some diagrams before getting started. Make yourself familiar and comfortable with the terminology and anatomy of your tree (the names of its body parts). Have a go at matching up images you've sourced with those on your own tree (as I have here below). Pay attention throughout the season, when you're enjoying a coffee out in your garden, stop and have a good look at your tree. What are the buds opening into right now? Are they bursting into a blossom or unfurling into a leaf? Take some pics there and then and write some notes for yourself to look back on in a few months' time. Share and compare knowledge hints and tips with you family, friends and neighbours, chances are they may have the same trees and may be able to help you, or vice versa. Peaches, Peacharines and Nectarines ( Prunus Persica ) (The example above is my Trixzie ®️ Pixzee Miniature Peach.) I've labelled it to show you the characteristics on my tree in comparison to a diagram in a book. A. is a lateral (or branch if you rather, it comes off the trunk or a previous season's branch). B. is a sprig (a small/minor branch coming off a lateral). C. is a fruit spur at the end of the sprig. D. is a fruit and leaf bud together. E. is a wood and leaf bud. F. is a leaf bud. Self-pollinating, Peaches, Nectarines and Peacharines will fruit on their own without a companion, and tend to fruit on one year old wood, meaning the laterals of the previous season. The 'fatter, fuzzier' buds are generally fruit buds. Leaf buds are smaller, flatter and less significant. Wood spurs are often slender solitude buds normally further back in along the branch prior to the fruit buds. A close up pic here below👇 Image above is as follows👆 A, B & D are all plump fuzzy little fruit buds, while C is a leaf bud nestled between the two fruit buds. You'll notice the small round white spots atop each swelling on the lateral, this is where a mature leaf has just recently fallen from. The tiny, pointed, dark things above those, are where a new dormant bud for a following season lives. Apricots. ( Prunus Armeniaca )  At the tail end of last season, I bought myself a young dwarf Divinity Apricot as the Apricots in supermarkets always seem flavourless. It's not a very big tree yet to use as an example; nonetheless, it has the correct bits'n'pieces for me to label and describe for you. See the image above👆 A. Both laterals off the main trunk. B. A sprig coming off a lateral containing some leaf buds. C. A fruit bud spur. D. A wood spur. (will become a new sprig). Also self-pollinating, Apricots bear fruit on mature wood and do so for multiple seasons. Once mature, regular pruning is only needed really to keep it tidy, and to encourage it to keep producing new wood for future seasons fruit baring. Fruit buds on Apricot trees aren't fuzzy like those of a peach, though they do still tend to be larger and more obvious than leaf buds. They almost look like little miniature pinecones. They're also often seen in clusters of '3 in 1' like C. in the image above. ** An important thing to remember is that Apricots are highly susceptible to a disease called 'Gummosis'. (It looks a little like glossy hard oozing honey) Once it affects a tree is can be hard to bring back under control so it's crucial that you only ever prune your tree when the weather is fine and dry. Fresh open wounds exposed to moisture are the perfect opportunity for disease to set in. A close up look at those buds👇 See the image above 👆 A. is a fruit bud spur. B. is the sprig, a little short branch coming off a lateral. C. is a wood bud. A plump little bud that I'm pretty certain is fruit. (I'll confirm that in a few more weeks' time!)  Pears ( Pyrus Communis .) (The example above is my dwarf red pear.) Pears and Apples aren’t self-pollinating meaning they require a compatible companion to produce fruit. I've got ornamental pears in my front yard, and it just so happens they are perfectly fine as companions for cross pollination. Image above is as follows👆 A. 3 year old wood I'm holding between my fingers. B. 2 year old wood. C. 1 year old wood. D. swollen knobbly section known as a bourse. E. Fruit bud. F. Leaf of wood bud. G. Fruit bud. Almost always at the end of a lateral. H. Dormant bud. Pears and Apples being closely related are very similar in their characteristics, both almost always fruit on two year old wood. The swollen looking lumps at the bases of buds are known as a 'Bourse'. You'll notice them where fruit or wood buds have previously been. They will continue to produce more either fruit or wood buds in consecutive years so try to avoid shortening them or removing when pruning. Water shoots, or water sprouts, are non-productive. They emerge vigorously from a dormant bud, and their tendency to grow straight upwards, almost vertically, is a telltale sign of their presence. And here again 👆 A. Fruit Bud on 2 year old wood. B. Fruit Bud. C. Bourse on a 3 year old lateral, having produced a wood spur last year, which now has a fruit bud at the end of it this year, it's 2nd year. D. Exactly the same scenario as C. Fig (Ficus Carica.)  (Example is my white Adriatic Fig tree) Most cultivars of Figs are self-pollinating so you only need one. My particular tree, the White Adriatic is a lower spreading variety which works well in the wine barrel it's in. Image above is as follows👆 A. Fruit bud tucked in beside leaf bud at the terminal point. B. leaf bud. C. Dormant bud beside where a leaf has previously fallen from. D. Exactly the same as C. Fruit commonly forms on last seasons wood at the terminal point of the laterals and sprigs beside the leaf bud. (see both images) That being said, every leaf union has the potential to for a fruit bud. Image above is as follows 👆 A & B are both fruit buds, while C is a terminal leaf bud. Hopefully the labelled pictures of my trees serve as a useful reference for you. With practice and observation, I promise you'll become more adept at identifying what's what on your own trees too. By investing that time into understanding and recognising their individual characteristics and becoming confident and comfortable with meeting their requirements will enable you to effectively nurture their development and enhance their productivity. 'Happy trees, happy life!' Keep an eye out over the next few months and I'll continue to post some progress pics of my trees as they head into Spring. Keep warm, Happy gardening!😘🌸🌳

Written and edited by Tammy 3rd June 2024 Frosts are among the greatest adversaries for gardeners throughout the colder months. Days with clear, sunny skies often lead to subzero temperatures overnight, causing frosts to occur. Without being pro-active and having measures in place, the results can be detrimental. So, what happens to our plants when they're exposed to frost? When our plants are exposed to frost, this is what happens: 1.Plant Tissues Freeze: The sub-zero temperatures cause the water within the plant cells to freeze. 2. Cell Damage: The cell walls and membranes of the plant then become physically damaged due to the formation of ice crystals within those cells. 3. Disruption of Cell Functions: The frozen water expands causing the cells to burst. Once this happens, the cells cease to function as they should. 4. Dehydration: As the plant begins to thaw out, the damaged cells can no longer retain water properly, which leads to dehydration. 5. Wilting and Discoloration: The affected parts of the plant then start to wilt, turn black, or become discoloured as a result of the frost damage. 6. Reduced Photosynthesis: Once plant tissues are damaged to that extent, they're no longer able to photosynthesize effectively, which can further weaken the plant. 7. Increased Vulnerability: A plant that survives frost burn will often be more vulnerable to diseases, pests, and other environmental stresses. Tips for Preventing Frostburn Vigilance Cover up Location Mobility Protectant formulations Timing of pruning Vigilance Watch and listen to the daily weather forecasts. Pay attention to the predicted minimum and maximum temperatures for the proceeding day. Be prepared to cover your vulnerable plants that night when sub-zero temperatures are forecast. Cover up Cover them up. Check out the image below. My Seedlings at work, every night I 'tuck them in😁' It takes me no more than a couple of minutes to roll some 'Frost cloth' out over them. Frost cloth is a re-usable product for covering plants that still allows them to breathe, while insulating them and preventing frost from settling on them. You'll find frost cloth at most major leading outlets and online. An alternative to frost cloth might be an old sheet or a tarp supported by some sticks or hardwood stakes. You could even cover your plants with old plastic two litre milk containers or icecream containers. Be creative and utilise anything you've got to be able to cover them. Location Consider where you plant your seedlings or plants. Is there an alternative location in your yard that's more sheltered and protected, less exposed to frosts? Perhaps beneath some large established evergreen trees. Make them mobile You might be someone who doesn't have the option of planting out into the garden. For renters, or perhaps elderly who find it's physically challenging to get down on the ground to garden, it might be an option for you to have your plants in large mobile planters, raised beds, or pots on wheels or caddies. Making your plants mobile gives you the convenience of being able to move them around to expose them to sun throughout the day, then move them back under shelter at night. Protectant Treating your plants with a frost and sunburn protectant is another option particularly advantageous for larger vulnerable plants that it's less practical to cover. Look for the product called 'Envy'. Envy has been formulated by an Australian company based in Qld called Agrobest. The product is designed to protect plants from ALL environmental climatic stresses. The active ingredient is a water-based polymer that's non-toxic, pH neutral and biodegradable. When it's applied to your plants it covers the foliage with an invisible membrane, protecting them from frosts, sunburn, windburn, and wilting from excessive moisture loss. It doesn't prevent them from being able to photosynthesize and breathe (take in carbon dioxide and release oxygen). You can find the product online through The Garden Super Store based in QLD. Here's a link to their website Garden Shop | 1000's Of Products | The Garden Superstore Timing of pruning As with our roses, some plants are better off NOT to be pruned too heavily until the time of the season, when the risk of frosts has lessened. Most plants in general will slow down with their growth over the colder months, when the days lengths are shorter, and there is less sunshine and warmth. Pruning and feeding some plants too soon prior to Spring may encourage a flush of fresh new growth leaving in vulnerable frosts. Gardening is so rewarding, in more ways than I can mention, but it can be costly too. When it comes to some of the unexpected nasty frosts we often have here in our region, it's worth going that extra mile to implement a few measures to safeguard your plants, ensuring their health and survival. By taking proactive steps such as following the weather forecasts, covering your plants, and considering you planting location options, you can minimize the risks associated with frost damage and promote the longevity of your garden. Remember, prevention is key in preventing frostburn! Happy Gardening😘🪴

Written and edited by Tammy 26th May 2024 With the hot weather now well behind us and Winter almost here, we’re all busying ourselves back out in the gardens. Autumn/Winter is traditionally the time of the year for planting all things deciduous, and bare root roses, fruit trees and ornamentals are now trickling into garden centres and nurseries everywhere. Last season I wrote a couple of posts sharing hints and tips on bare root trees, but this time I want to share with you some ideas and suggestions that might help with selecting the right roses for you. With so many to choose from it can be a little overwhelming knowing where to begin! Choosing that perfect rose When you shop online for something the first thing you do is 'set your search filters'. This narrows down the search to just the size, colours or fragrance that's relevant to you and the order of importance to you. Try to apply that same analogy when you're ready to start looking for your roses. Create a list of what's important to you and the order of those preferences from 'most' important to the least. Colour Fragrance Size Name Hardiness and integrity Bare root or potted A few old favourites you might've heard of to get you started. Colour. The colour of the rose is most often a biggie. Consider things like the existing colour scheme within your garden, you'll want to compliment that. If it's a brand-new garden and you're starting from scratch, putting your roses in first might be what sets the theme for everything else you plant. Fragrance. Fragrance is another important one for a lot of folks. In some people’s eyes a rose just isn’t a rose regardless of its beauty if it has no fragrance. If it’s fragrance that’s important to you, search primarily for the fragrant roses, then choose colour you love from within the fragrances you love the most. Size. Roses come in a multitude of sizes and varieties to fit different situations. Carpet roses as the name suggests, are a ground cover rose. They grow between 30-60 cm tall and spread to cover an area of upto a meter. Perfect for borders and fillers. Bush roses, depending on the variety can be maintained as small as 60cm tall right upto 2 meters. Standards are most commonly seen as 3 foot patios for smaller areas and 4 foots. Best suited to formal gardens, driveways, fence lines and entrance ways. Weeping standards are grafted onto taller 140cm to 180cm tall root stock. They make for a lovely stand-alone feature in the middle of a lawn to make a statement. A real showstopper in full bloom, when their long arching canes cascade over gracefully. Climbers are exactly that, they spread, ramble and cover a large area in no time. Perfect for covering arbours, archways or on a trellis for screening out a shed or fence. Name. Since the beginning of time, roses have been given great names of significance. It may be in honour of their breeder, in celebration of an occasion, or to commemorate someone of stature "The Queen Elizabeth Rose". If you're buying a rose to gift to someone, search for a name with relevance to the occasion, "Mothers Love", "Golden Jubilee". Chances are there will be a rose with the perfect name. Hardiness and disease resistance. Pending of where you live, your climate and your soil quality, you may be more concerned primarily with finding the hardiest most disease resistant varieties of roses over the colour and fragrance. More and more so now breeders are focussing on breeding their roses with an emphasis on them being more adaptable and disease resistant than their earlier relatives. If you've constantly struggled in the past with roses being susceptible to die back, fungal issues etc, this might be something to take into consideration when choosing your roses. Bare root or potted. Bare root or potted. Consider when the right time will be for you to buy your roses. There are pros and cons for both. Bare root season spans the cooler months when plants are dormant and will settle in nicely without stress as they're not actively growing. They're cheaper, and more compact taking up less room as you're not buying the pot and soil as well, advantageous particularly if you need a lot of them. Potted roses on the other hand, are purchased throughout the warmer months when they are actively growing. The obvious advantage being that you can see the foliage and blooms, appreciate their appearance and fragrance, and more importantly see that they are a healthy growing viable plant with an established root system, and it goes without saying, for those reasons you will expect to pay more. House keeping. Any roses you plant whether they are little carpet roses or climbers and standards, will need a minimum of at least 6 hours full sun a day for them to thrive and bloom. They are hungry feeders with the energy they put into producing their beautiful blooms, nothing comes for free, so be prepared to regularly feed them a good quality organic rose food such as Neutrog Sudden Impact for roses. Regular good deep soakings a couple of times per week over the warmer months will aid them establishing a strong deep healthy root system. Be vigilant for pests and diseases and treat them promptly before they take hold. *Hint Hybrid T -Singular large bloom per stem. Floribunda -Masses of smaller blooms than a hybrid T per stem. Decide what is of a priority to you. Is it colour, is it size for a particular location, or is it that you want your front yard to be filled with that breathtaking classic fragrance. once you've worked out your priorities, go to your local library of jump online and start browsing from the thousands of roses there are to choose from and start looking for your perfect rose. Knight Roses are proudly South Australia's largest wholesale supplier of roses since the 1950s. Growing 700 different varieties, the produce over 350,000 roses a year. They have a wonderful website that might be another good place to start for you and there's always a friendly voice on the other end of the phone if you need to know more. Buy Roses Online |100's of Bagged or Potted | Knight's Roses Australia (knightsroses.com.au) A dozen classic old favourites to get you started😁 White Iceberg- Bush or STDS one of the best!!! Guaranteed. Just Joey- Large Apricot bloom, hybrid T, fragrant. Peace- Soft yellow, pink rimmed bloom, fragrant, hybrid T. Double Delight- Two toned cream and cool red, hybrid T. highly fragrant. Gold Bunny- Large full golden blooms, hybrid T, faint fragrance. Freesia- Lemon yellow, highly fragrant, floribunda. Blue Moon-Large lavender/Lilac hybrid T bloom, highly fragrant. Heaven scent- Large classic soft creamy pink, highly fragrant hybrid T bloom. La Sevillana-Classic warm red, prolific flowering floribunda. Ideal for landscaping (locals see between Coonawarra and Penola SA beside the Vineyards). Pierre de Ronsard- Classic, well-known designer climbing rose. Feminine, soft pink, tightly packed full fragrant blooms. A favourite. Bonica-Smaller shrub variety, soft pink, floribunda. Masses of blooms, disease resistant. Apricot Nectar-Soft Apricot fragrant floribunda. Popular well known. Choosing roses can be exciting and rewarding, it's just knowing where to start. Hopefully I've broken it down a little for you and taken away some of the guess work. Always up for a chat if you want to know more. As always, have a wonderful week and enjoy your gardens! 😘🌹

Written and edited by Tammy 18th February 2024 A common question I’m asked is “what veggies can I plant right now?” and in all honesty right now in February for our region, the lower SE of South Australia, (climate zone 6) I would have to say not a whole lot. I could give you suggestions and recommendations for things to plant, (which I will still do) but I can also do things a little different and give you a list of vegetables you wouldn't plant right now and more importantly, why. You’ll still find most of these seedlings available now, and the reason being that in some Zones it's quite likely still fine. Side note: If you're lucky enough to have a hothouse, (a controlled environment) you're 'off the hook', I'm essentially referring to planting seedlings out into the ground, exposed to the elements. Warm Season Veggies Warm season vegetables, planted in Spring, grow right throughout the warmer months. By now these plants should be mature and you should be harvesting produce from them. Cucumbers tomatoes zucchinis capsicums Chillies If you do come across these veggie seedlings I wouldn't recommend planting them now. Most warm season vegetables take between 2-5 months from the time of sowing to being able to harvest them. Being that we're only weeks away from the beginning of Autumn, if you planted them now, you would run out of warmth and day length to see them through to maturity let alone harvest anything from them. Cool Season Veggies Cool season vegetables are planted in Autumn once the worst of the hot weather has finished, and the days become cooler and shorter. They grow throughout the cooler months taking anywhere from 2-3 months depending on the variety, to reach maturity. Brussel sprouts Broccoli Cabbage Cauliflower Beetroot Despite these seedlings being available now, me personally, for our region I'd still hold off on planting them out into the ground for another month yet. I say that because we still potentially have a few more weeks yet where our daytime temperatures can be into the mid 30s, (take this coming week for example) that's a bit too warm for little cool season seedlings. By mid to late March, we begin to see the day lengths shorten, and a decrease in the daytime temperatures, they will have a far better chance of getting off to a good start. **Tip- if you've got seeds now is the perfect opportunity over the coming weeks to germinate your own seedlings. Grab yourself a propagation starter kit, some seed raising mix and set them up in a sunny North facing spot. I'm about to do just that with the Survival Seeds I purchased and showed you a few weeks ago. If you missed it, check it out here Survival Seeds Find out what climate zone you're in, It'll help you to establish what to grow and when. But just remember it's a guide, not gospel. Look for the clues in Mother Nature too, she speaks louder than we give her credit for. Take notice of the changing leaves on the trees and 'that feel' of Autumn is in the air. Here's hoping you all had a lovely weekend. As always Happy Gardening😘🍅

Written and edited by Tammy 7th May 2024 Pruning is one of those jobs that all gardeners need to do at some point whether you have a conservative little courtyard or a sprawling landscaped masterpiece. It's one of those routine jobs like washing, dishes and making the beds...you've got to do it. Customers often approach me saying "I need to prune my tree, but where do I start? which tool is for what??" It can be a bit overwhelming, so, let's go through a few and see if I can help solve some of the confusion. Pruning tools Floral snips Secateurs Shears Loppers Hand saw Anvil versus bypass Floral snips Snips are similar to a pair of scissors, you have two cutting edges coming together, bypassing each other. Generally, they'll have fine, pointed blades for getting into tight spots. They're designed for making precise cuts on softer foliage. Use them for removing spent blooms on annual colour. Secateurs Secateurs, or pruners as some folk call them, are for pruning smaller hardwood up to approximately 20mm in diameter. They're the most suitable choice for pruning back your roses, fruit trees, vines and deciduous ornamentals. Here are a few considerations to take when choosing a pair of secateurs. Price. A pair of entry level secateurs will start around $10. From there you can expect to pay up to $150 and beyond for a quality pair with all the 'bells and whistles'. Consider how much work you will be doing with them, if you intend to be using them all day every day, spend a little more and go with a better-quality pair. Weight. Pick up a few different pairs and compare the weight of them. Are you going to fatigue holding them for a whole day in the garden? Would you be better off with the lighter weight pair. Blade size. Think about what you will be pruning. Lavenders and Daisies will be fine with small, shorter blades, but for your fruit trees and roses you might be better off with larger heavier weight blades. Comfort. Comfort is also important. Take the time to find a pair that feel comfortable in your hand. Look for features such as soft grip handles, and a contour that works for the size of your hand. Some secateurs feature a rotating handle and are available to suit either left-handed or right-handed users. This concept embraces the idea that as your fingers curl, creating a fist, or rather, closing the pruner, the lower handle rotates with your curling fingers. Particularly helpful for older arthritic hands. Like finding your favourite brand of coffee beans, every gardener will find their favourite pair of pruners they love to work with. (Clearly, I'm a coffee drinker!) I recall my old boss giving me a pair of Bahco secateurs and telling me to look after them and not lose them. I still have them, and to this day they remain my favourite ones to work with! They're slim, compact and non-bulky for small hands. They disassemble easily for sharpening and hold their edge well with the daily workout I give them. Shears Shears are designed for shaping and maintaining larger bushes and hedges. They have two sharp edges, that bypass one another the same as the floral snips. Obviously they're larger than snips though, they have long, flat blades designed for removing large amounts of foliage in one cut. The other thing you'll notice is the slight angle between the handles and the blade, which is designed to aid comfort while using the tool in awkward positions. Things to consider when choosing a pair of shears. Price. Once again, the price will be comparative to the quality of the product. Depending on the features you need, you'll find a pair of shears as low as $20 a pair, up to $120 plus. Blade length. For clipping small hedges or shaping standard topiaries, shorter length blades will be easier to manage. A large Buxus or Pittosporum hedge will call for longer, heavier duty blades. Handle length. Handles vary greatly in design and size too. Consider the size of the plant you will be pruning. Shorter handles will be fine if you don't need to reach far, but for taller hedges where you need to reach beyond the extent of your arms-length, telescopic handles extend to double and more of the original handle length. Powered 18v or petrol. If you have a lot of large formal hedges to maintain on a regular basis, (consider hiring a gardener!!🤪) OR, a powered line trimmer might just be for you. Visit your local small engines and power tool specialists and ask loads of questions. Ask them to show you a comparison of the brands, and features of each. A petrol line trimmer will require fuel, oil, and regular servicing, the 18 vollt battery trimmer will come with the expense of buying and charging multiple batteries. It will come down to what works for you. Loppers These are the tool we call on for the big stuff. They’re designed for removing larger previous seasons wood up to and in excess of 20mm in diameter on roses, fruit trees, vines or ornamentals. Some loppers have a ratchet mechanism. It's designed to increase the force applied to the blades in a series of ratchet steps. Helpful for a smaller person, the physical force required to complete the cut is greatly minimised. Telescopic extendable handles are also often an option for loppers which should be considered if what you need to cut is higher up. Hand Saw A must have for every gardener's tool kit! A pruning handsaw is handy for small limbs that are awkward to get at with the loppers. Unlike loppers, the blade of the handsaw can cut right up against the trunk of the tree or the larger limb it's being removed from, so you're not left with a small stump protruding. Being small, they're light weight and super easy to use. The teeth are normally angled back towards the handle meaning they bite in and cut on the back stroke, the pull action, not the push. They work equally as well on dead wood as green wood. Do be mindful to get one that has a decent quality blade, too cheap and thin and it will always jar on the forward push, bending it, rendering it buggered! As with the other tools, you will find a selection of sizes and styles available. If the branches you’re needing to prune or get at are a long way up, well above your head height, rather than climbing a ladder, look for a pole saw pruner which has an extendable handle, often it will have a lopper on it as well. *Anvil versus bypass Another thing you might come across that's relevant for pruners and loppers is the terminology anvil and bypass. What's the difference between anvil and bypass? Anvil tools provide a more powerful cut as they have a double-edged sharp blade (like a kitchen knife). The blade cuts down through the wood essentially crushing it against a flat surface, the anvil bed. For hard old dead wood, that’s absolutely fine, and chances are you won't get through that with a bypass pruner anyway. Bypass tools on the other hand have a single sharp cutting edge that cuts cleanly past the lower fixed edge of the tool. It’s a cleaner neater cut for living wood, less damaging and stressful for the plant. Whether you're tiding up a hanging basket of pansies, or cutting back the most untamed, rambunctious woody vine, there is a specific tool for each job. It's just a matter of finding which one is the most suitable for your task, and the most comfortable for you to use. You'll be an expert armed with all knowledge now next time you go shopping for gardening tools! Hope you week is going along smoothly. Don't forget this weekend is Mothers Day! Happy gardening 😘🌸🍂

Written and edited by Tammy 6th April 2024 (Allium sativum) Garlic. If you're contemplating, "how hard is it to grow garlic?"......the answer is simple, it's easy! Follow these basic steps and never buy supermarket garlic again. **Growing garlic steps to success ** Seed source How much do I need to plant? When is the right time to plant it? Growing requirements. Spacing and depth- how far apart, and how deep to plant them. Ongoing maintenance. When and how to harvest. Health benefits and uses for garlic. Seed source. Once you've decided to have a go at growing your own garlic, take the time to find yourself some quality Australian owned/grown produced seed garlic. Here are a couple of very good reasons why... For one, there's no guarantee how old garlic purchased from in the supermarket is, particularly if it has come from overseas, it could already be months old. Garlic from overseas is often treated with Methyl bromide to prevent pests and disease. And if you think that sounds like something nasty that's because it is.  Methyl bromide is a toxic fumigant no longer used here in Australia due to its hazardous properties. Even if it is Australian produced, garlic grown for the supermarket shelves is most aways pre-treated with growth inhibitors to prevent it from shooting. How much do I need to plant? It's pretty simple, think of it like this.... 1 clove of garlic produces 1 new plant. Each new plant produces roughly 10 to 12 new cloves. So theoretically, 10 cloves planted should net you, 10 new plants equalling 100 individual cloves. Always better to have too much than not enough I say! And remember, from what you grow, not only do you want enough to enjoy eating for the season, but you want to be able to save the same quantity for growing again next season. Ultimately you should never have to buy garlic again. When is the perfect time to plant garlic? Kinda any time now! Garlic, not unlike any other bulb, needs the cold to promote growth. As we head into Autumn there's still nice warmth in the soil, but the temperatures are dropping, and the day lengths are shortening. We've come to know of this as the perfect time for bulbs. Garlic needs 8-9 months to grow and reach maturity, so planting it now in Autumn between March and May means you'll be harvesting between November and January. Some folks say, "Sow on Anzac Day and Harvest on Cup Day". If that makes it easier for you to remember, then there's no harm in that. Growing requirements. Garlic needs plenty of sun, it won't grow in a shaded spot under trees. Find a good sunny spot in your yard or if that's not possible, grow it in a large pot or container. The advantage of growing in a pot or container is that you can plant straight into the perfect potting medium, drainage won't be an issue, and you can move it around your yard if need be. It does prefer a free draining, good rich organic environment. If you're sowing it into the ground add plenty of compost and good handful of blood and bone prior. TIP** Remember to rotate your crops to avoid build-up of soil born disease, aim for a 3-year rotation. Don't go back into the same spot with the same vegetable year after year. Spacing and depth. Soil prepared and ready to go. Break open the bulb if it's not already separated out into cloves. Set aside any tiny cloves too small to plant. Prepare a diluted solution of Seasol complete garden and Health treatment in a container and soak the cloves overnight. Pre-soaking the cloves in Seasol with give them a massive head start. Not only will it invigorate them and stimulate growth, but it will also boost their resistance to pests and disease. Once drained, dried off and ready to go you can begin sowing them. Give each clove approximately 15cm space between them and sow them down to a depth of no more than 4-6cm with the pointed end facing up and the rounded end facing down. Ongoing maintenance. Water them in with a little more Seasol. This should see them off to a really good start. Feed them at fortnightly intervals with a soluble fertiliser, Seasol powerFeed, and every couple of months apply some organic pelletised fertiliser of your choice, some Dynamic Lifter or Rapid Raiser, both good choices. If seasonal rain is plentiful, you won't need to water too often. Be mindful not to let them become waterlogged or they'll be susceptible to rotting. Keep on top of weed control, pull out weeds as they emerge to keep the garlic bed weed free. Monitor closely for evidence of pests and fungal issues such as aphids, rust or white spot. Where present treat with a natural organic fungicide or insecticide. You don't have to always turn to a store-bought product either, look at what's in your own pantry, Bicarb Soda can be a gardeners best friend! Combine 1 tablespoon of bicarb, in a couple of litres of water and treat with that. Often just as successful, kind to the environment and even kinder on your wallet. When and how to harvest. Around 8-9 months after sowing, the foliage will begin to yellow and die back. Stop watering 3-4 weeks prior to allow the skins to dry and tighten a little then they'll be ready to harvest. Use a garden fork (not too close to the bulbs or you'll risk damaging them) to dig down and lift to loosen the soil. This should make it easier to free them from the soil. Trim the excess roots and leaves to tidy them up. Secure them into bunches by the stems, and hang them in a warm, airy location away from direct light for at least 3-5 weeks to dry. Failing to dry them properly will risk them not storing, spoiling and going mouldy. Done properly they should store well for up to 12 months. Health benefits and uses for garlic. You could write a book about it, in fact I'm quite certain there ARE books and articles exclusively on the uses and benefits of garlic, so I won't go into that. Safe to say, garlic IS good for you. It's amazing anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and immune boosting properties have been tried and tested for centuries. And from a culinary perspective, what CAN'T you do with it. It finds its way into my own diet almost daily, whether it be a sneaky chunk off the end of a stick of Kalleske's Mettwurst in my fridge, or in the Garlic infused extra virgin olive oil drizzled on my salad. And I'm quite sure I'm not alone. If you're here in my part of the world, grab yourself a pack of 'Good Aussie Garlic' seed. Proudly grown and produced right here in our own backyard....50 minutes down the road in Bordertown SA. Check out their website, you'll find Rachel and Wade's contact details there. Or if you pop down to your local Naracoorte Mitre 10, they've got plenty available in store right now. Grown at home garlic! (goodaussiegarlic.biz) What are you waiting for, grab some garlic and get planting today! Happy Gardening 😘🌸

Written and edited by Tammy 12th March 2024 The tail end of 2016 saw me thoroughly enjoying my first year working in a local, family own retail plant nursery. It was so exciting to find myself doing something I truly loved. A promotion by University of Tasmania was offering scholarships for a short course in 'The Science of Gardening'. It was only three months, studying online self-paced and with the scholarship it wouldn't cost me anything out of my own pocket. Any apprehensions I had for studying online were soon dismissed and I was keen for more, so when part 2 of 'The Science of Gardening' was on offer I grabbed it. Unknowingly, I had set myself up perfectly for my Cert. III in Horticulture. I had become confident and comfortable with online studying, and I had the basic fundamentals of soil biology and chemistry, and the world of botany. Early 2020 I began researching Certificate III in Horticulture, who could I study through and what was it going to cost. The one thing I kept looking for was 'testimonials' and reviews from past students who had been through what I was looking to embark on. Now it's my turn to be one of those past students and share my story to hopefully save you some leg work. Certificate III in Horticulture-The whys, whos & hows. Why horticulture? Who did I study through? Why did I choose them? What did it cost? How long did it take? What you can expect Would I recommend it? The 16 modules Why horticulture? Plants and gardening are something I've loved all my life. If you're going to take that big step of studying to qualify in a field, make sure it's something you genuinely love and are interested in. It shouldn't be a chore or boring, it should be an exciting and rewarding challenge. Remember the saying "Life is about the journey not the destination". (yes, you've got to have a destination or a goal for where you're heading, BUT life is too short to rob yourself of enjoying the journey to get there). Who did I study through? I chose to study with Open Colleges. They are proudly Australia's foremost long-distance education provider leading the way now since they began, mailing out workbooks back in 1921. They have a physical campus in Perth WA, North Tce Adelaide and, their head office is in Sydney NSW. Why did I choose them? Initially, it was their reputation as the leader in the field and, that that they'd been around the longest, that had to mean something. Equally important was the cost, flexibility with payment options, and the timely availability of lecturers, or assistance when I needed it. To me that was important. If I was going to be taking this journey remotely, I wanted the assurance that there was always going to be someone available for support....and there was. What did it cost? I enrolled to study my Certificate III in Horticulture AHC30716 in February 2020 and back then it cost me $4,600. Upon enrolment I paid a $100 deposit then I was set to go! The balance was paid in weekly instalments over the duration which was 12 months. OC allowed me to set up a payment schedule that worked for me around my other regular expenses which was a blessing and made the difference between me being able to study or not at all. How long did it take? Twelve months was the allocated timeframe to complete the course. COVID lockdown happened in the time that I was studying so my class were lucky enough to be given grace of an extra 6 months. Despite that, I still completed all 16 modules easily by June 2021 (16 months). What you can expect. The main difference with studying online is that you are not physically in a classroom with your lecturer and peers. Once your profile is set up, you'll be guided through the process of logging into 'Open Space'. Open Space is your online campus where you'll access all your course content and assignments. No different to a classroom, you'll work your way through a module, (a topic) and finish with a theory and practical assignment. Practical assignments will require you to have someone video you and sign off as your witness. You can then upload your assignment including your video to Open Space to be assessed and graded by your lecturer. Once you successfully pass that assignment you can move onto the next module. The most important piece of advice I can give you is to find a way that best works for you to manage your time. 'Time management' is definitely the key to be able to stay on track. They will make exceptions and give extensions for unforeseen circumstances, but generally, each semester is a fresh intake of students not unlike a regular school. Would I recommend it? Most definitely, without a doubt! From day one OC were prompt, friendly, professional and helpful. Student Support were wonderful and encouraging, and always went out of their way to help. Zooms and Webinars were a great way to interact with your lecturers and fellow classmates in a virtual classroom. A link to participate is sent to you via email, (think of it as a key to the front door) using either your computer or device with a camera and microphone enabled, you'll open the link and you're in. On your screen, you'll be able to see all your classmates and your lecturer and have the opportunity to join in and speak to one another. I enjoyed the process and convenience of being able to work at my own pace, in my own time, from at home. I didn't have to take time off of work to go and attend classes at a Uni, so it worked perfect for me with my family and job commitments. The 16 Modules AHCPCM204 - Recognise plants. AHCPCM202 - Collect, prepare and preserve plant specimens. AHCPGD201 - Plant trees and shrubs. AHCNSY303 - Install and maintain plant displays. AHCNSY301 - Maintain nursery plants. AHCWHS301 - Contribute to work health and safety processes. AHCPCM302 - Provide information on plants and their culture. AHCSOL303 - Implement soil improvements for garden and turf areas. AHCPCM301 - Implement a plant nutrition program. AHCPMG301 - Control weeds. AHCWRK30 - Apply environmentally sustainable work practices. AHCPMG302 - Control plant pests, diseases and disorders. AHCWRK305 - Coordinate work site activities. AHCWRK311 - Conduct site inspections. AHCPGD305 - Conduct operational inspection of park facilities. AHCTRF303 - Implement a grassed area maintenance program. As you can see by looking at the topics covered here in the 16 modules, by studying Certificate III in Horticulture there are so many opportunities and doors open for you. You could work as an inspector or grounds keeper for local council parks and gardens, work in a botanical garden or herbarium, or head down the path of landscape design. I'm out the other side now, a qualified Horticulturalist, in the industry I love, managing a garden centre! It doesn't get any more real than that. I'm proof that it's very possible and do-able... If you put your heart into it. What have you got to lose!! Happy Gardening😘🌸 Useful links Certificate III in Horticulture Online | Open Colleges Science of Gardening (KPZ001) - Courses & Units - University of Tasmania, Australia (utas.edu.au) Science of Gardening 2 (KPZ003) - Courses & Units - University of Tasmania, Australia (utas.edu.au)